SOLVED: trying to jump battery lights flash and horn blows — 2007-2012 Jeep Wrangler
These repair guides are for a 2007-2012 Jeep Wrangler (JK) Sport, Sahara, Rubicon and Unlimited Editions.
tyring to jump battery horn blows and lights flash
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Rep: 102. 2k
It’s probably your alarm system that’s going off. When the battery died, the car’s alarm system assumed that someone is tampering with the battery or had disconnected it in order to break into the car. Here’s what you can do hook up the jumper cables. The horn will start to blow. As soon as it does, using the key fob, lock and then unlock the doors or basically whatever you usually do to shut off your alarm. once you’ve disabled the alarm go ahead and try to start up.
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You can also put your key in the door and lock and unlock a couple of times. Worked great!
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Another way to stop the horn from blowing, open fuse box and remove horn fuse. Connect battery , start car and reinstall fuse. Problem solved
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When I was trying to remove cable of negative terminal of battery I forgot to lock car by remote then suddenly I touch negative cable to terminal of battery and looked car but it different sound but after charging battery when I first connect positive and then negative it started blowing siren..so I didn’t connect negative terminal because when I m trying to connect negative terminal it started siren like as a someone trying to open door with different keys or say stealing. .how can I resolve this problem?
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Why is my horn going off when I recon ve my battery? — 1998-2002 Honda Accord
2.3L 4cyl or 3.0L V6, 6th Generation
I have an 2002 Honda Accord and recently it was dead for a few months til I charged the battery once I put the battery back I connected the positive and then right when I connected the negative the horn started going off does it have an alarm? How can I stop it from doing that? Or what’s up? And also my radio says «code» I have the code but idk how to put the number «0» help! And can I disconnect the alarm if there is one?
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Rep: 6. 5k
My Durango will do this if you unlock the door using the actual key instead of the keyless. While the horn is going off get in and start the car, that should get it to recognize any chip in the key and turn the alarm back off. For the radio, the code should be a 5 digit number 1-6 if I remember correctly, only the serial number for the radio should have 0’s in it.
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Where did the hum in the car come from?
- Coasting, turning and just like that: where did the rumble in the car come from?
Hum is an unpleasant thing. Sometimes it appears gradually, and the owner subconsciously gets used to it and does not pay attention to it until something falls off. This is bad, so it is advisable to put the ears on the top of the head at the first sign of a hum. That is, at the moment when it only seems that something buzzed. A good rumble, of course, will come out on its own, but it is better not to allow this.
The hum we are going to talk about today is the hum of all hums. This is not a whistle and a squeak from under the hood, which we have already written about. This is a different kind of sound, which is heard not from under the hood, but somewhere below, on the side, or in general it is not clear where. But almost always — on the go.
So, the first sound is the simplest.
The most common cause of hum is wear or destruction of the wheel bearing. It is very easy to distinguish this hum from others: at the initial stage, it occurs only at a certain speed in a rather narrow range (for example, 40-60 km / h or 90/110). To make sure that the bearing is buzzing is simple. You just need to check if the sound changes in turns. If it changes (disappears in one direction and becomes louder in the opposite direction), then this is definitely a wheel bearing. As a rule, the volume of the hum does not depend on the degree of pressing the gas pedal, but very much on the speed. In general, everything is very simple and familiar to many.
The second fairly common cause of hum is the howl of the gearbox (we are talking about a manual gearbox). It is much less common than bearing wear (after all, a box is not a consumable, although for some reason some manufacturers do not know about it). In the box, the input shaft bearing wears out the fastest, and it is not difficult to verify this malfunction quite accurately. You need to first listen to see if the pitch of the horn changes when you pick up speed in one of the gears. If it changes, then after picking up speed, you need to turn on the neutral gear and coast a little (just in case, I warn you: this is dangerous). If there is no hum on the neutral, then welcome to the service.
In a mechanical gearbox, a hum may appear due to the oil level gone. Most often, it will first be in higher gears (fifth or sixth), so if there is a hum only in these gears, and when switching to lower gears it disappears, it will be useful to check the oil level. Or at least make sure there is no oil leaking out of the box.
Of course, the gearbox can be buzzing for other reasons (for example, if the gears are already worn out), but it is difficult to make a sound diagnosis here.
By and large, the transmission has the most parts that can hum on the go. And since they are quite tightly connected and are able to very noticeably transmit vibrations and sounds to the body, the localization of the transmission hum can be difficult. However, let’s try.
A growing rumble during acceleration on a rear wheel drive vehicle may indicate a lack of oil in the rear gearbox or its wear. And if you’re lucky, then both the cardan cross and its outboard bearing can buzz. But these situations are quite rare (we, unfortunately, have almost no honest rear-wheel drive cars left), so let’s return to front-wheel drive.
A wheel bearing whine is emitted by another wheel bearing. Not all cars have it, but if it does, and the wheel bearings are normal, it makes sense to check it. Usually the tone of this sound is higher than the rumble of the hub. Yes, it is more difficult to diagnose. However, you can try. The pitch often changes depending on the load on the drive, so you need to play with the gas pedal. If the sound somehow changes with the position of the gas pedal, the likelihood of wear on the outboard bearing is quite high. In addition, often its wear is accompanied by vibration on the steering wheel or its beating, which also changes depending on acceleration.
Well, another source of noise at speed is the CV joint. Moreover, the internal CV joint, which is also a tripod, buzzes more often (in most cases, the internal hinge is structurally just a tripod). Unlike the external CV joint, the internal one cannot crack so brightly in turns due to the small angle of change in the position of the shaft relative to the box, and it is not always possible to calculate it with a sharp acceleration with the steering wheel turned out. Therefore, it is more difficult to check it, and it is better to do it on a lift. If this seems incredibly difficult, you can try to slowly move forward and then back. If there is a noticeable click at the moment the movement starts, the CV joint is most likely faulty. And of course, it will almost always be faulty if it has a torn boot. True, it is quite difficult to see the anther of the internal CV joint without a lift or at least an inspection hole.
And now a moment of sad information for owners of cars with automatic transmission. The hum of a classic torque converter box usually comes from the torque converter (“donut”). True, in this case, other symptoms of its malfunction can often appear. For example, the car may accelerate unevenly or twitch under engine braking. Of course, it is difficult to self-diagnose the automatic transmission, especially by ear, but if there are significant changes in the behavior of the car during acceleration and braking (especially in the city), and something is buzzing somewhere in the legs, there is a good chance to get the automatic transmission repaired. This is especially true for those whose cars like to abuse the lock in all gears, starting with the first. There, the linings wear out faster, polluting the oil quite intensively. And if this oil is not changed, then the “donut” will die, and then the rest of the box. But let’s not talk about sad things.
The variator buzzes much more often than a classic automatic transmission. Its rumble is often called «trolleybus» — the sound when accelerating is really similar to the sound of an accelerating trolleybus. The appearance of such a hum on a car with a CVT is very sad. And most likely expensive. Therefore, it is better not to finish off the cones, but to quickly deal with cheaper repairs (for example, replacing a belt or chain), which (perhaps) can still help save the cones themselves.
But what if it’s not a transmission? What else could be the source of the noise?
The most likely cause with a good transmission is the exhaust system. Its hum is a bit like the hum of a wheel bearing, but, unlike the latter, the exhaust hums not at a certain speed, but at certain engine speeds. If you accelerate and release the gas, the bearing will howl in the same way, and the exhaust system should be silent. What can make a voice in it, we have already told and will not repeat ourselves (spoiler: most likely a corrugation or a resonator). This sound, of course, is not as dangerous as the howl of a wheel bearing, but it can be very annoying.
By the way, there are quite a few reasons for the hum that may not bother you. For example, on the track, when the wind direction changes, something can also buzz (spoilers, windshields, even wiper leashes). Of course, it is not dangerous, and there is no need to be afraid of it. The main thing to remember is that the crosswind gusts that make the car hum are strong gusts, and you should not fly along the highway «for all the money.» Side wind, especially gusty and on a slippery road, is dangerous. It’s better not to risk it.
We talked about what is buzzing under the hood (power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, bearings, rollers and everything else that spins). Usually on the track these sounds are not heard. But some «motor» rumble should make you think. For example, the valve membrane of the crankcase ventilation system may hum strongly. Here we need to understand why. Okay, if the membrane itself is simply worn out and torn (although this is also bad, but for non-new machines it is forgivable). The reason can be much more serious — from leaky pipes of the VKG to a worn piston and the increase in crankcase gas pressure associated with this wear.
One last thing: often the cause of the hum is simple, but not obvious. For example, a hum may appear after the «re-shoe» tires. If the noise is stronger than usual, check the balance, and first make sure that the tire changer has not screwed up or mixed up the tires in places, putting them against the direction of rolling. You never know, anything can happen.
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Noise when driving — causes and what to do?
A strong hum in the car, especially when driving at speed, is an extremely intrusive irritant. And one of the most common causes of this trouble, which annoys when driving a car, is a malfunction or wear of the wheel bearing.
But this is not the only reason why there is a hum, including in the passenger compartment when driving.
- TOP 10 causes of hum when driving a car
- Hum due to wheel bearing
- What can give extraneous noise in the engine?
- Gearbox noise
- Vehicle exhaust system
- Brake circuit: what can buzz in it?
- Non-obvious cause: vehicle steering
- Extraneous noise in the cooling system
- Rear axle: another possible source of hum
- Tires on car
- Electrics: the hum may even come from it
Moreover, there are natural causes:
- Wind. If there is an oncoming one, then there are two solutions on how to get rid of the hum in the front of the car: slow down or follow someone. But if in the side, then there is only one option — to go slower.
- Windows. Particularly open, not completely, but by a third or even less: the air flow causes excessive noise when the car is moving. Similarly, when there are wind deflectors on the doors, allowing them to be slightly opened even in the rain.
- Road surface. At the same time, one should not assume that the worse the relief, the deeper the pits, the more extraneous sounds. High speed of movement plus coarse-grained asphalt: the effect is such that it is just right to pick up earplugs.
- Roof rack. It can also become a source of extraneous noise in the car. There are two options: put up with it or take it off when you don’t need it.
But these are only «natural» causes. While there are many more reasons associated with wear / breakdown of the car.
Therefore, we have selected the most common causes of extraneous noise and hum in the car:
- wheel bearing;
- exhaust system;
- brake discs/pads;
- cooling system;
- rear axle;
- electrical equipment.
We will consider them in more detail.
100% accurately identify and eliminate the cause of the hum in the car. Sign up and come: (029) 141-40-04 or (033) 364-40-04.
Hub bearing hum
This is the most common, obvious ‘culprit’ of extraneous hum in the car when turning the steering wheel and driving in a straight line. The most frequent manifestations:
- When turning the steering wheel left and right, the noise is not the same.
- Similarly, the larger the rotation angle, the higher the noise. However, it disappears when you put the wheels straight.
- As the speed increases, the noise under the car becomes unbearable, even if you are only moving at 60 km/h. And in especially neglected cases, when the performance of these works simply “burns”, the beating of the steering wheel and the vibration of the entire machine are added to the noise.
But these are only indirect reasons that the wheel bearing is out of order. Although if you find one of them, be sure to take the time and diagnose whether it is faulty, or there is a breakdown somewhere else.
The technology of how to do it on a 2-wheel drive car is simple and clear. A jack is enough, and it is done without helpers. It is more difficult to do the same with 4×4 cars: you need a lift to hang the car. Plus a stethoscope that allows you to hear extraneous noise in the wheel bearing.
Here is just the above method, when one / all the wheels are rotated by hand, you pull them in all planes in order to determine the play, they do not give a 100% result. So, even with the slightest suspicion, it is worth contacting a specialized service station. Riding with a worn bearing, especially when the rumble is heard even with just an ear, is simply dangerous.
What can cause extraneous noise in the engine?
Motor. It can also become a source of increased noise if it starts to make a hum at idle / during normal operation. Its cause may be wear / unscrewed mounting pads of the power unit. The malfunction is not critical, it is easily eliminated by pulling the connections, and if necessary, replacing the pillows themselves with new ones.
Noise from the gearbox
There are quite a lot of possible malfunctions when a constant or, conversely, intermittent hum occurs when driving. Just to list them:
- Input shaft bearing. One that simply wears out with prolonged use.
- Release bearing hums. It is easy to check this: if the sound disappears during the transition to neutral speed, it is with a high degree of probability that it is he who is to blame.
- Malfunction / natural wear of the CV joint. As an option, the anther could not stand the operation, it stopped holding the lubricant. But to change only it or the entire «grenade» as a whole, individually in each case.
- Finally, any other bearings installed in the gearbox and drive system of the car. On the axle shafts, in the razdatka, drive or on the cardan shaft.
At the same time, it is often not possible to diagnose a malfunction without special skills and appropriate equipment for what exactly is the source of extraneous noise. The only right decision in this situation is only one — you go straight to the station.
In addition, as with the power unit, do not forget about its supports, they can also delaminate. And don’t forget to check the oil level in the box. Regardless of its type: mechanics, classic automatic or CVT. Due to oil starvation while driving, the car can also make extraneous noises.
Vehicle exhaust system
Unlike the motor-gearbox, it is much simpler. Therefore, there will also be much less possible malfunctions:
- lost the mount from the exhaust pipe when they drove to the dacha along the dirt road;
- similarly, they bent it, moving off the curb in the city.
Brake circuit: what can hum in it?
Brake pads creak or squeak, as you can hear. The harder you press the pedal, the louder the sound. But to determine whether the pads were worn out, the disk / drum was damaged, or some foreign object was stuck in the mechanism, removing the wheel will help.
Not obvious reason: car steering
Many will ask the question: what does he have to do with it? And they will be wrong, since the power steering can become the cause. Both the pump itself and the hoses. Therefore, if after starting the engine after parking in the cold, the noise first appears and then disappears, be sure to revise this unit.
Extraneous noise in the cooling system
In the pump, especially after a long run, the bearing wears out. The coolant is chasing unevenly, the power unit overheats, which can lead to capital. Try to replace the bearing as soon as this problem is identified.
Plus, be sure to check the condition of the air conditioner bearing, it can also hum when turned on.
Rear Axle: Another possible source of hum
In a rear/4 wheel drive vehicle, grease in the rear axle can leak. Checking its level, topping up, and if necessary changing it completely is a way to extend the life of this node. And when you do this work, check the cardan cross, it can also cause a hum.
The reasons for this may be:
- Out of season tires. When you drive in the summer on winter tires, with a “toothy tread” and even with spikes.
- Poor balancing. When braking, not only an increased rumble is felt, but also a beating. There is only one way out — a tire shop.
- Incorrect installation. Most tires sold today are directional: an arrow on the lunge will tell you how to put them on.