Diamond Monster Fusion Z100 AGP graphics card
Review date: 10 December 1998.Last modified
03-Dec-2011.
Voodoo Banshee was and is 3Dfx’s second 2D-3D
combination chipset. It follows in the footsteps of the not-too-successful
Voodoo Rush, but offers Voodoo 2 level performance on the 3D side instead
of the sub-Voodoo Graphics (Voodoo 1) power of the old Rush cards. Diamond’s
Banshee board is called the Monster Fusion. I checked out the AGP version
— there’s also a PCI incarnation of the board.
Having recently reviewed
Diamond’s V550, powered by NVidia’s all-conquering Riva TNT chipset, I was
interested to see what you get if you drop about $100 less and go for slightly
older technology. The Monster Fusion retails for around $350 (Australian
dollars), while the V550 costs $460 or so.
Many 3Dfx graphics cards are, essentially, just minor reworkings of the
3Dfx reference design, and this one’s no exception. Instead of the common
slower SDRAM, Diamond have chosen to use SGRAM (Synchronous Graphics Random
Access Memory) for the 16 megabytes of onboard memory, which makes the card
rather faster for 2D, not that the difference really matters.
The other chief point of interest is the fan-cooled heatsink on the main
chip; the ultra-low-profile fan is built into the heatsink, and the whole
assembly is no bigger than the standard «prickly» heatsinks included on
boards like the Viper V550 (reviewed here). This
means the Monster Fusion will definitely not foul any other cards in your
computer, which is a good thing. The big fan I added to my Viper (read how
here) makes it impossible to mount a card next
to it.
The presence of the fan makes the heatsink itself pretty much fin-free,
and so the whole assembly doesn’t do nearly as good a job of keeping the
chip cool as a «full size» fan and sink combo.
After only a half hour benchmarking
session with the computer case open, the other side of the board under the
heatsink was almost uncomfortably hot. This was on a hot
Sydney night, but just the same — don’t get the idea that this cooling system
is so great that you can overclock without a care.
You couldn’t go all that far overclocking this card, anyway, because
it’s already clocked higher than most Banshee boards. Core speed is 115MHz,
memory speed is 125MHz, versus 100 to 110MHz and 115MHz respectively for
competing Banshee boards. Even conservatively clocked boards can only be
made about 10% faster by overclocking, so you’ve got to be something of
a loony to bother; the Monster Fusion is already on the redline. If you
insist on twiddling further, the utility to use is Powerstrip, free from
EnTech.
Docs and installation
Diamond as usual provide only a CD-insert-sized booklet on installing
the Monster Fusion — the box is big enough for the complete works of Shakespeare,
but, again as usual, contains mainly fresh air.
The booklet covers Windows
95, 98 and NT installation well enough. Novices might be annoyed that there
aren’t any illustrations, but if you’ve installed a card before this is
no big deal.
I ignored the provided driver CD and downloaded the most recent drivers
from
http://www.diamondmm.com/products/drivers/driver-index.html prior to
installing the card. I recommend you do the same, as a matter of course,
with any new hardware. The drivers in the box generally work just fine,
but it seldom hurts to start with the most current ones. The driver includes
the usual 3D quality options and gamma correction control,
but no clock speed slider. Some people have complained about this. As I
note above, they are nuts.
When installing an AGP graphics card, even if you’re replacing another
AGP card, it’s a good idea to set your video driver back to standard VGA
(the very first option of the very first entry in the full Windows video
driver list).
If you’re upgrading from a PCI video card and you don’t do
this, your machine will probably just beep at you sadly when you restart
it with the new card in place. If you’re swapping one AGP card for another,
you may or may not have problems.
I winged it when swapping the Monster Fusion in place of the Viper V550
and just left the Viper driver in place, and the card swap went smoothly
— but when I swapped back, the Fusion drivers didn’t like the Viper at all
and I had to restart in Safe Mode, switch to VGA and restart again, because
the Viper driver installer won’t run in Safe Mode. Save yourself the aggravation
— do like the docs say, and switch to VGA before installing.
If your computer allows you to set your AGP bus speed faster than 66MHz,
and you’ve done it, set it back to the default speed before installing the
new video card, or more confusing beeps will greet you. And if you’re running
a Super 7 motherboard, remember that your AGP port
probably won’t work unless you’ve got USB drivers installed.
This can also apply to some Slot 1 motherboards, like for example the Abit
BH6. Don’t ask why, just do it.
The driver install package also contains Diamond’s InControl Tools, which
provides quick menu access to various Windows display features as well as
resolution switching like the venerable QuickRes or rather better MultiRes
(another free EnTech product).
Performance
In its 2D performance the Monster Fusion tests pretty much exactly as
fast as the V550 for business purposes — in other words, a great deal faster
than anybody is likely to need. The SGRAM lets it streak ahead in DirectDraw
tests, which might matter if you’re into baroquely complex ultra-high-resolution
CAD applications or something. 2D speed hasn’t really been a factor in video
card choice for a couple of years, now; it’s resolution and
refresh rate that counts.
In this department, the V550 has an edge, but not a giant one.
The Monster
Fusion can maintain an 85Hz refresh rate all the way up to 1600 by 1200
pixels in 24 bit; it supports 1920×1440, but only at 60Hz. The V550 does
85Hz or better all the way to 1920 by 1200.
This is not an issue for most users, because most monitors don’t handle
higher resolutions than 1280 by 1024 or so. Even if your shiny new 17 or
19 inch monitor does accept humungous resolutions, they’re
not much use for anything but games — see the sidebar.
Like all of the Voodoo chipsets including the upcoming Voodoo 3, the
Banshee only supports 16 bit colour (high colour)
for 3D graphics. This is not a big deal, and is only obvious in games that
used overlaid translucent effects. The TNT chipset supports
The Banshee’s 3D electronics are much the same as the Voodoo 2’s, except
it doesn’t have multitexturing — which makes it a bit slower for games that
support multitexturing, like Quake 2 and Unreal.
On the other hand, Banshee
supports 1024 by 768 and even 1280 by 1024 in 3D, rather than the 800 by
600 you’re stuck with if you use a single Voodoo 2 — you need twin Voodoo
2 cards in Scan Line Interleave mode for 1024 by 768.
So how fast is it? Well, to be honest, it ain’t that exciting. On my
450MHz overclocked Celeron 300A, a processor perfectly equal to a Pentium
II 450 for gaming (and, indeed, pretty much all other) purposes, the Monster
Fusion’s Quake II performance was lacklustre. Even in 640 by 480 resolution
it only managed 21.3 frames per second on the Crusher demo, which reflects
worst-case-situation multiplayer game speed. Its performance on the standard
Demo2 and less demanding multiplayer test Massive1 was acceptable, but to
pass muster for multiplayer gaming you need to manage about 30 frames per
second on the Crusher demo. Who cares how fast the card is when you’re just
running down a corridor — it’s when everyone’s shooting at once that you
really need the frame rate.
The Viper V550, whose Riva TNT chipset revels in monstrous CPU power
and which, I remind you, supports multitexturing, was almost 40% faster
on the Crusher demo in 1024 by 768 mode than the Monster Fusion in 640 by
480. This represents about 3.5 times the pixel-pushing power. In contrast,
Diamond’s older Monster 3D II using the Voodoo 2 chipset and running in
640 by 480 can at least keep up with the TNT’s 1024 by 768 framerate.
That said, it’s unfair to use only multitexture games to test a Banshee
card. In games that don’t use multitexturing, the Banshee is pretty much
exactly as fast as a Voodoo 2.
If you play your first person shooter in single player mode and you’re
happy with Voodoo 2-level 800 by 600 graphics, the Monster Fusion will do
better than fine. If you’re a flight simulator aficionado, 1024 by 768 will
probably be quite acceptably speedy. And you also have to remember that
the Fusion supports 3Dfx’s proprietary Glide 3D standard,
which makes it highly compatible with a large number of games whose
OpenGL or Direct3D support,
for cards like the V550, may be dodgy or absent.
The Monster Fusion works
fine with Unreal, for instance (just as well, since it comes with it!),
while Unreal on TNT cards is, at the time of writing, still not working
at all acceptably.
Bundled software
The Monster Fusion comes with a «special edition» of Unreal, which like
all special editions is basically just a demo. This is a pretty good one,
though. It’s got 11 levels, and three new deathmatch levels — only two are
mentioned on the box. You also get the full version of Microsoft’s Motocross
Madness, a fun arcade dirtbike racing game which, I’m afraid, has no guns
on the bikes and is therefore of no interest to me.
If you’ve got a DVD drive without a hardware decoder board, you may also
be glad of the included SoftDVD package, which on speedy machines (a paper
insert included with the documentation warns you that SoftDVD will only
work on Pentium II processors) can play DVD movies at very high quality
— but only on your computer monitor, since the Monster Fusion has no TV
output.
Overall
3Dfx aren’t aiming the Banshee chipset at hard-core gamers, and indeed
for the most popular 3D games even a fast Banshee board like the Monster
Fusion isn’t quite up there with Voodoo 2, let alone the Riva TNT. But that
doesn’t make this a slow, or a bad value, graphics card; it’s plenty faster
than Voodoo 1, it supports 1024×768 in 3D for simpler games, and its 2D
performance is blistering. If you’re in the market for a new video card
and can’t justify the extra dollars for TNT, the Monster Fusion is a fine
compromise.
Pros:
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Cons:
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| Diamond Monster Fusion PCI
by Bubba «Masterfung» Wolford |
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Reviewers Specs:
What a year! We had some serious 3D wars going on and it has been a real pleasure to bring our readers reviews of what we consider the best cards on the market. To finish up 1999, we are bringing you a review of the FASTEST 3dfx Banshee card on the market, period. History Back a few years ago, 3dfx announced their first foray into the 2D/3D market with the Voodoo Rush card. Voodoo Rush turned out to be 10% slower than it’s dedicated 3D brother and suffered massive compatibility issues. Sales of the card were pretty good initially, due to the long coattails of the Voodoo1. However, sales slowed tremendously once word got out of the problems associated with the Voodoo Rush. What was once thought to be a huge step forward for 3dfx, turned into a massive nightmare. Banshee announced Jump ahead to Q4 1998. 3dfx releases its newest member of the 2D/3D market. We have a very similar scenario to what transpired back with the Voodoo1 and Voodoo Rush. We have a new 2D/3D combo from 3dfx (Banshee) making a big splash via the glittering coattails of 3dfx’s dedicated 3D card, Voodoo2.
What is different about this scenario is that Banshee has lived up to the hype, and sales are skyrocketing. After Banshee’s initial introduction, there were a lot of questions from gamers as to whether this cad was going to crush sales of Voodoo2. Even though the core clockspeed of Banshee is 10 MHz higher than Voodoo2 by default, the lack of a 2nd TMU would prevent it from outperforming V2 is SOME games like Quake 2 and Unreal. In games like these, which use a 2nd TMU, Banshee takes a real hit (20-40% in FPS). However, these are the ONLY games that support a 2nd TMU right now. (Only one other game (SHOGO) that I know of will support a 2nd TMU; many more games that support Glide and D3D are coming to the market where having a 2nd TMU is not an issue).
So to say that a lack of a 2nd TMU is a «weakspot» might be ill advised unless you play 1st person shooters frequently. However, there is another weakspot that hardcore gamers cannot ignore. Gamers cannot add a 2nd Banshee like V2 to achieve SLI. This lone fact, in my opinion, has kept hardcore gamers away from Banshee. In games that do not require a 2nd TMU, do not be surprised to see a Banshee outperforming a single V2. The higher clock rate and faster memory can spell doom for a single V2 user versus the Banshee. Diamond has taken what 3dfx created and made the ultimate gamers Banshee. Before we go into what Diamond has done with their Banshee, lets look at the specs for the Monster Fusion:
Diamond: King of FPS again
When my Monster Fusion arrived, Diamond had sent a fantastic media kit along with the product. It had a glossary of 3D terms and definitions, Press releases about the Banshee and a great picture of the card in the folder. There was something protruding out on the board in the picture. I grabbed the anti-static bag and ripped it open. Sure enough, Diamond had included a heatsink and fan on the chip to reduce heat! Turns out that Diamond’s Banshee board is pre-overclocked to 115 MHz core clock speed (15 % faster than other Banshee boards) and comes with overclocked 125Mhz SGRAM. The SGRAM is overclocked from 110Mhz to 125 MHz bus speed making this Banshee the fastest on the market. This translates into higher FPS numbers. In Falcon 4, I was getting 18-20 FPS in 2D cockpit and in outside view, FPS numbers were in the low 30’s. For a PII 300 with only 64 MEG RAM, those numbers are quite good. That was with the graphics options on MAX (Player bubble on 2). If I brought the graphics options down 2 notches (player bubble still on 2), numbers went up in the order of 10 FPS!! Click to continue |
Here is the 3D Mark 99 Pro numbers for the Banshee 800*600: 3D Mark 99 Pro numbers for 1024*768 are very good too: *Note 3D Mark numbers taken with PCI Monster Fusion The Competiton: The 3D wars have made choosing a 3D card very difficult. In my own «main» system, I have 2 12 MEG Monster II cards running in SLI along with a Diamond Viper V550. I consider that combo to be the best overall combination without respect for cost, simply because I use my SLI Monsters for almost anything in 3D. BUT when I want to run something in 32 bit color depth I can. However, with the advent of Banshee, I am telling those that ask which 2D/3D combo is the best that the Monster Fusion Banshee is the top of the heap. A few reasons why:
1) While it may take a back seat (slightly) to the TNT in D3D, it is almost as fast. It is faster in D3D than the Matrox G200 16 Meg AGP by a rather large margin. 2) The Banshee supports D3D, OpenGL and GLIDE. No other 2D/3D combo supports all three big API’s. Even though D3D has made leaps and bounds in the last three years, it still cannot outrun native Glide in FPS. I hear a lot of people talk about 32-bit color depth. The Banshee (like other 3dfx cards) pipelines 16 bit color out and although 32 bit looks better, no one likes to use it because of the huge frame rate hit. Thus even though the Banshee only supports 16-bit color depth, I hardly think this is a «disadvantage». 3) It has the fastest 2D core of any 2D/3D combo. The Viper V550 is almost as fast but even takes a backseat to the G200 16 Meg AGP. Really, this 2D-speed contest is a wash. We are splitting hairs. They are all about equal.
4) The Banshee costs on average $50 less than a TNT card. For those who want true D3D speed and do not own a V2, I do not consider the G200 much of an option. It is about 40% slower than a Banshee in 3D and does not support Glide. 5) It seems that the Banshee is less CPU dependent than the TNT. Thus it is a better solution overall for those with slower CPU’s (Pentium class). The refresh rates for the Banshee according to the Diamond website are as follows: Software Bundle: Diamond added some great games to use with your new Monster Fusion: Motorcross Madness and Unreal. Unreal looks stunning and I have enjoyed playing the Banshee with Falcon 4. It runs great on everything I have thrown at it. Conclusion: For gamers, compatibility and speed are the main concern. With the 115Mhz-core speed and 125Mhz-memory bus, the Monster Fusion is the fastest Banshee on the market, and heat is no worry with this one. If you looking for the best 2D/3D combination on the market, look no further. This is an excellent card overall, and a steal at $149 for both PCI and AGP. Both come with a $30-50 mail-in rebate.
We award the Monster Fusion a Top Pick for outstanding performance.
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combatsim.com)
Clearly this was not the desirable first step that 3dfx intended in introducing themselves to the combo market.
The specs 3dfx were pushing for Banshee sounded outstanding. However, 3dfx knew what it was doing. 3dfx implanted in Banshee a weakspot in its armor. Lack of a 2nd Texture Memory Unit (TMU).
I looked at the picture and noticed something odd about it.
Fastest 2D on the market)
25 ways to clean the bath to snow-whiteness in 5 minutes — Arsenal of Purity
The question of how to clean the bath to snow-whiteness, preferably in 5 minutes and at no special cost, excites every housewife.
Eliminate rust spots, limescale and yellowness quickly using store solutions and improvised means.
Causes and types of bath contamination
There can be several types of dirt on plumbing fixtures:
- Soap residue. It is formed as a result of the use of soaps, gels, shampoos, balms, etc. This pollution is quite persistent, so simply washing it off with water will not work. It is removed only with cleaning compounds with a brush.
- Rusty spots. Yellow coating on the walls of the bath is due to rust that accumulates in the water pipes.
- Limescale. Causes too hard water.
- Color spots. Appear in most cases when coloring agents are carelessly used, for example, brilliant green, manganese solution, hair dye, etc.
- Dust. During the repair of the bathroom, you should take care of the safety of plumbing by covering it with a film.
Construction dust settles on the bath, after which it is difficult to wash it.
Preparing to clean the bath: important nuances
Before washing the bath from stubborn dirt and plaque at home, it is necessary to carry out preparatory measures and study all the details. When choosing a cleaning method, it is important to consider the type of coating. The reaction of materials to cleaning agents varies markedly.
The following points should be taken into account:
- Don’t experiment with an acrylic bathtub to avoid damaging the outer glossy layer. It is forbidden to rub the bowl with metal brushes and hard washcloths, as well as use products with aggressive components.
- There are products designed for gentle cleaning. They are used for daily processing so that the bath is always in good condition, but they cannot cope with old pollution.
- Aggressive compounds, if used inappropriately, may cause the enamel or acrylic layer to break in a few uses.
Cast iron bathtubs are considered to be more resistant to various types of influence. But here it is important not to overdo it. Acidic substances must be used in doses, and a metal brush should not be used at all.
Acrylic is the most sensitive to dirt and household chemicals. The material quickly absorbs dyes and has a high susceptibility to mechanical stress.
Folk remedies for cleaning the bath from different materials
Often time-tested methods using household substances help to clean the bath from dirt and plaque better than store-bought compounds. The main thing to consider is the type of coverage.
Cast iron bathtub cleaning
Old sanitary ware acquires microcracks during use, into which dirt eats. For this reason, cleaning the cast-iron bath has to be done at frequent intervals, with great effort.
Modern cast iron bowls are more practical because they have a special coating. Plumbing is easy to care for — almost all oxygen-containing products cope with cleaning.
Here are some of the most effective home remedies for cleaning a durable cast iron tub white in 5 minutes or more.
#1. Soda
The folk method has proven itself well.
- Prepare 2 types of soda in advance: soda ash and food. Connect 1 to 1.
- Moisten the bath, cover it with the resulting product.
- After 30 minutes, rub with a washcloth.
- Rinse with water after 40 minutes.
#2. Laundry detergent
The cast iron bowl can be cleaned white with a simple washing powder.
- The powder is rubbed into the walls of the bath and recorded for half an hour.
- Loose dirt is removed with a brush and the bowl is rinsed.
#3. Ammonia and soda
If you want to quickly clean a cast iron bath from old plaque to white, use ordinary ammonia at home.
- Make a solution by mixing ammonia with baking soda (1 to 2).
- Apply to bath walls.
- Rub and rinse after half an hour.
#4. Vinegar and soda
Another folk remedy that has gained popularity because it perfectly removes dirt and returns the bath to a white color.
- Combine vinegar, baking soda, cleaning liquid (1:2:2).
- Rub the compound into soiled areas.
- Observe one third of an hour, then remove with water.
Recommendations
- After the manipulations, the bowl must be washed with water and dried by wiping with a cloth.
- If the surface is micro-cracked, it is recommended to refurbish the plumbing, as in this case cleaning will not help to get rid of the stubborn dirt.
Cleaning the steel bath
Steel is practical, but abrasive products are not recommended for cleaning. The steel bowl is sensitive to high temperatures. Keep this in mind when choosing cleaning products. Do not allow the reagent to heat up in contact with water.
#1. Ammonium chloride
To clean the thicket, you need to make a liquid solution.
- Mix 1 tbsp. l. ammonia with 250 ml. water.
- Apply product to dry bath walls.
- After 10 minutes, dirt is easily removed, all that remains is to rinse the bowl.
#2. Soda
We tell you how to clean a bathtub (steel) to snow-whiteness in just 5 minutes with ordinary soda.
- Combine baking soda and water to make a paste.
- Spread evenly and wait a while.
- Then carefully remove with a soft sponge, avoiding rubbing.
- Wash with water.
Recommendations
- Wear gloves when using conventional methods. If the proportions are not respected, you can get a chemical burn.
- Commercial gels are preferred for steel coating. They are distributed and spotted for 15 minutes, then removed with water.
- Regular Fairy liquid is great for daily care.
Enamelled bath cleaning
Sanitaryware with this coating is inexpensive and easy to maintain, so it is very popular.
But before you clean the bath, you need to know one rule in order to carry out the procedure without harm to the enamel.
Avoid using hard brushes and abrasive products. They erase the enamel, the coating becomes rough, microcracks form. Because of this, the appearance of the bath deteriorates, it acquires a yellow coating, and dirt quickly gets into the resulting pores.
How can you clean an enamelled bath:
No. 1. Citric acid
To whiten the bathtub, ordinary lemon is used.
- Prepare a high strength citric acid solution.
- Treat the bath.
- Time a third of an hour, rinse.
#2. Ammonia and soap
Stubborn dirt can be easily removed with ammonia.
- Grate the whole piece of household. soap.
- Put the shavings into water, leave until a homogeneous mushy state is obtained.
- Add ammonia (5 drops per ½ cup of soap).
- Treat the enamelled surface.
- After a quarter of an hour, wipe with a sponge, rinse with water.
#3. Soda and peroxide
A popular method will help to clean the enameled surface to snow-white.
- 2-3 tbsp. l. mix soda with 250 ml. hot water.
- Add 50 ml. peroxides.
- To achieve whiteness, you can pour washing powder.
- After applying the composition to the walls, the dirt is easily separated.
- All that remains is to rinse the bowl with water.
Acrylic Bathtub Cleaning
Acrylic bathtubs are not as difficult to maintain as you might think. It is only necessary to take into account that not all means are allowed to use. Some of them can lead to irreversible damage to the coating, as a result of which contaminants will eat into microcracks.
What not to do when caring for an acrylic bathtub:
- clean with low-abrasive products — after using powders, microcracks may appear, the coating will stop shining, become dull;
- use chlorine-containing products that corrode the coating, making it rough;
- clean with hard brushes;
- clean the bowl with solvents such as acetone or oxalic acid, as these may cause surface deformation;
- it is worth abandoning the use of formaldehydes and ammonia, the acrylic bath is too “gentle” for these substances.
In addition to the above reagents and abrasive components, acrylic plumbing is terrible: alcohol, gasoline, acids, alkalis. When interacting with them, the color of the coating changes, microcracks are formed.
The list of restrictions is quite long, but for delicate coatings, you can also find safe cleaning products at hand:
No. 1. Vinegar
Cleaning an acrylic-coated bathtub white in 5 minutes will not work, because after the vinegar treatment, you need to wait a while. But the effect will impress you.
What to do:
- Soak paper towels in the vinegar solution.
- Lay out on the walls and leave for a couple of hours.
- Finally rinse with water.
#2. Citric acid
Lemon helps maintain whiteness, removes yellow marks and old plaque.
- Fill the bathtub with water and add acid (200 liters will require 50 grams of lemon).
- After 2 hours, drain the water.
- Clean the plumbing with a sponge and dry with a cloth.
#3. Toothpaste
Use toothpaste or diluted dentifrice to quickly remove yellowness and whiten your bath.
- Apply toothpaste in a 2 mm layer. on the walls of the bath.
- Detect for half an hour or longer if the dirt is stubborn and old.
- When the allotted time has elapsed, rinse with water.
#4. Soda
This folk method involves the use of not soda itself, but a solution prepared from it with a cream consistency.
- Dilute baking soda with slightly warm water, let the grains dissolve.
- Next, enter the grated household. soap.
- Apply to the sides and bottom of the tub.
- Rinse after 30 minutes to remove dirt.
Aroma oil can be added to the composition — plumbing will not only become snow-white, but it will also smell nice.
#5. Peroxide
An effective but drastic method, which is used when it is urgent to clean the stain from the bath.
- Prepare a solution of ammonia and peroxide (2:1).
- Wet the sponge and spread the solution on the dirt.
- Rinse with water after 10 minutes. You can’t keep it longer.
Ammonia should only be used in extreme cases. Interaction with this substance leads to deterioration of acrylic.
Household Bath Cleaner Review: Top 9 Products0005
Since, for example, rust can be removed from a bathtub at home, it will be possible to quickly and effectively use store-bought products, we recommend using them.
Improvised compositions are certainly effective, but they do not have a directional effect. Plumbing products, on the contrary, are designed to clean the bath in 5-10 minutes and save the hostess from unnecessary problems.
When choosing a cleaning compound, it is important to pay attention to the coating and the type of dirt.
#1. Universal products for daily bathroom care
In this category — compositions that are used regularly without harm to enamel and any other coating.
Universal products are good because they act simultaneously in all directions: they remove yellow plaque, eliminate rust and other contaminants that tend to eat into the surface.
Sanelit
Budget product in the form of a gel with a whitening effect has proven itself. The composition contains active oxygen and fruit acids, thanks to which Sanelit removes almost all types of dirt (soap stains, rust and limescale).
An indisputable advantage of the product is its versatility. It is used on all surfaces, including acrylic, enamel, plastic bathtubs. The tool also removes stains on chrome products, ceramics. There is no unpleasant smell, it is quite economical to use.
SanClean
SanClean will help to clean the bathtub to snow-white, removing all dirt in 5 minutes, and carry out basic plumbing maintenance. The product eliminates soap residue, rust marks, yellowness. The composition does not contain abrasives, acids, phosphates, so they are allowed to clean acrylic bathtubs, glasses and mirrors.
Luxus Professional
Spray, ideal for use in the bathroom. The products have quality certificates and a lot of positive reviews.
Benefits:
- delicately cares for sensitive enamel and acrylic surfaces;
- after application gradually thickens, flows down, an active cleansing layer is formed on the coating;
- quickly removes grease, soap residue, limescale and other dirt.
Production — Germany, the tool justifies its price. It destroys bacteria and gives freshness.
Luxus Professional is produced in accordance with eco-technologies. After use, the product decomposes into non-hazardous biological substances.
#2. Household chemicals for cleaning the bath from rust
Special products help both to clean the bath from rust and plaque, and to keep the plumbing clean at home for a long time. Household chemicals even remove stubborn dirt, stubborn rust and limescale that daily care products cannot handle.
Effective compositions that will restore the whiteness of the bath:
Sanox gel
The active ingredients in the composition of the product help to quickly eliminate rust and old limescale. After a few minutes, the bath will again become snow-white. In addition, the tool kills pathogens of intestinal infections.
Sanox gel contains oxalic acid and should not be used on acrylic or enamel. It is necessary to use the product with gloves, the frequency of application is a maximum of once a week.
Cillit Bang
The advertised cleaner removes all kinds of dirt in a short time. With its help, whitening of the bath from yellowness and rust is carried out. It is possible to achieve the effect thanks to oxalic acid in the composition. Please note that the product has a strong odor.
No. 3. Store-bought white bath cleaners
Let’s see how to clean your bathtub so that it shines white. Return plumbing shine and original appearance will be obtained by means specially designed for this purpose.
They are relatively inexpensive and easy to use at home.
Cif Ultra White
Effective mousse is very popular because it is inexpensive. The composition includes the smallest cleansing granules surrounded by bubbles, so that impurities quickly dissolve.
Consumers note the cumulative effect — as soon as the bath is cleaned, it becomes even whiter after each use of the product. The cream does not provoke the formation of scratches and soap stains.
Benefits also include pleasant smell, ease of use, removal of old limescale and dirt.
Bagi Acrylan
Has several effects: removes mold, rust, stubborn dirt, pathogenic bacteria. The indisputable advantage of the product is that it allows you to clean the bath to snow-white quickly, stains disappear in 5 minutes, plumbing acquires a beautiful shine. Of the minuses, consumers highlight the high price and surfactant content.
No. 4. The safest bath cleaners
In homes with small children or people with allergies, it is recommended to clean the bathtub with hypoallergenic products.
They are made on the basis of biodegradable components and natural substances.
Frosch Green Grapes
Based on tartaric acid and tensides. The spray has no pungent odor, the bottle has a childproof lock. Frosch is often bought by allergy sufferers, asthmatics and those who prefer environmentally friendly products. To whiten the bath, the emulsion must be applied for 10-30 minutes, depending on the nature of the contamination.
Amway Bathroom Cleaner The Belgian company produces safe cleaning products. The gel does not contain acids and chlorine, it can be used for daily care. There is no pungent smell, there is no harm to the coating either.
Astonish Paste
The paste is designed for cleaning kitchen surfaces, but it is also often used in the bathroom. Contains soap and mild abrasives.
Advantage:
- effective and gentle action;
- affordable cost;
- high quality;
- economy.
Astonish pasta is hard to find in regular stores and can be ordered online.
Tips for keeping your bathtub white after cleaning
To keep your sanitary ware clean and shiny for longer and not have to get rid of old dirt, pay attention to the following tips:
- It is recommended to clean the sides of the bowl with a damp soapy cloth after each use, then rinse with warm water.
- Wipe sanitary ware dry after use.
- In order to avoid rust, it is necessary to ensure that there are no leaks in the taps.
- Do not use metal sponges, hard brushes or powders with hard granules for cleaning. Do not scratch the surface — the more microcracks on the bowl, the faster pollution will appear on it, which are difficult to wash off.
- If the bathtub is used for cleaning metal items or bathing pets, a special rubber mat should be placed on the bottom to protect the coating from scratches.
- If it is not possible to wash and dry the bath every day, it is recommended to apply a glass cleaner to the coating, for example, Amway, Tilex, Titanium.
