Iphone 5 battery voltage: Apple Increases iPhone 5C and 5S Battery Sizes relative to iPhone 5

Looking inside an iPhone 5 battery

In the wake of my previous teardowns of the iPhone 4 and 4S batteries, I went onto eBay and Amazon (realizing that they finally have Amazon Prime student rates up in Canada) and bought a few iPhone 5 and 5S batteries. Although I was primarily interested in trying to get the gas gauge information out of the batteries, I had a secondary reason. The Nexxtech Slim Power Bank (a subject of a separate blog post) uses a pair of 3.8-volt Li-ion polymer batteries, and they seemed to be be suspiciously similar in size to what is used in the iPhone 5. But enough of that, we’re here for the iPhone 5 battery in particular!

Battery Casing

The iPhone 5 battery measures 3.7 mm in thickness, 3.2 cm in width and 9.1 cm in length. This particular model, made by Sony, has a model ID of US373291H, with the six digits corresponding to the cell’s dimensions. This cell has a labeled capacity of 1440 mAh at a nominal 3. 8 volts, with a maximum charge voltage of 4.3 volts. I tried to read the data matrix barcode on the cell but my barcode scanning app on my phone refused to recognize it. I might try to scan and sharpen the barcode later but it’s not something that’s of a high priority to me.

Battery Teardown and Pinout

The board itself is rather interesting. The protection MOSFETs used to switch the battery’s power are chip-scale packages and are glued down with epoxy, same with the gas gauge itself. This means that I can’t easily replace it with a rework station if the need arises. The board includes the gas gauge, thermistors, protection circuitry and still has room for a polyfuse for extra over-current protection.

iPhone 5 battery PCB layout

The pinout of the iPhone 5 battery is pretty much the same as of the iPhone 4 and 4S. You have Pack-, NTC Thermistor, HDQ and Pack+. In this particular model of battery, the gas gauge is a bq27545 (labeled SN27545), but has basically the same feature set as the iPhone 4/4S’ bq27541. With this information, I soldered to the small terminals on the connector (the actual connectors for this battery haven’t arrived yet since it takes so long to receive items from China on eBay), and hooked it up to my trusty Texas Instruments EV2400 box.

iPhone 5 battery pinout

Battery Data

And once again, we’re presented with an obscure firmware revision. The latest bq27545-G1 firmware is only version 2.24, but this chip has version 3.10. After forcing GaugeStudio to accept this gauge as a -G1 version, we’re once again presented with a sealed chip. Let’s try to unseal it with the default key…

Nope. No dice with 0x36720414, unlike last time.

… and I get the dreaded “Unseal Key” prompt. Cue the dramatic Darth Vader “NOOOOO” here. Maybe Apple read my previous post and decided to change the default keys this time (Hey Apple, if you read this, make the iPhone 6’s gas gauge have the default keys again)! This means that not only can I not access any of the juicy details of this battery, but I cannot update its firmware to a more… conventional version either. I could try brute-forcing it, but trying to hack a key with a 32-bit address space over a 7 kbps bus… uh, no. That’s not going to happen. I’d probably have better luck reverse-engineering Apple’s battery code but I doubt they have any facility to do in-system firmware updates for the gas gauge.

Data captured from GaugeStudio

Now for some rather… interesting details of what we can access. The design capacity of this battery, according to the gas gauge, is 1430 mAh, same as the iPhone 4S and also 100 mAh less than what’s written on the label. That, and the full charge capacity of this battery is 1397 mAh out of the gate. The gauge seems to be an insomniac (it won’t enter Sleep mode even when the battery is not hooked up to any load), and it seems to have less features despite having a higher firmware version (I’m sure the internal temperature isn’t 131 degrees C…), and the Pack Configuration register doesn’t bring up any sensible data.

Battery… conspiracy?

One thing that I haven’t confirmed is whether or not this battery had been tampered with before I received it. I bought this particular battery from eBay and it was listed as new. It had some adhesive residue but no obvious sign of being peeled off from another iPhone. The cycle count is set to 1, and because the gas gauge is sealed, I can’t read any other data like the lifetime data logs. There is a chance that this battery isn’t new and that the seller had somehow changed the data memory and sealed the chip with a non-default key, but I need to wait until some other batteries arrive in the mail and perhaps try reading out batteries taken out directly from some iPhone 5s. Until then, it’s only speculation as to why this chip is sealed with a different key.

The next victims specimens: an iPhone 5S battery, a “new” iPhone 4 battery, and an Amazon Kindle battery.

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iPhone Battery and Performance — Apple Support

Understand iPhone performance and its relation to your battery.

Your iPhone is designed to deliver an experience that is simple and easy to use.  This is only possible through a combination of advanced technologies and sophisticated engineering. One important technology area is battery and performance. Batteries are a complex technology, and a number of variables contribute to battery performance and related iPhone performance. All rechargeable batteries are consumables and have a limited lifespan—eventually their capacity and performance decline such that they need to be replaced. As batteries age, it can contribute to changes in iPhone performance. We created this information for those who would like to learn more.

About lithium-ion batteries

iPhone batteries use lithium-ion technology. Compared with older generations of battery technology, lithium-ion batteries charge faster, last longer, and have a higher power density for more battery life in a lighter package. Rechargeable lithium-ion technology currently provides the best technology for your device. Learn more about lithium-ion batteries.

How to maximize battery performance

“Battery life” is the amount of time a device runs before it needs to be recharged. “Battery lifespan” is the amount of time a battery lasts until it needs to be replaced. One factor affecting battery life and lifespan is the mix of things you do with your device. No matter how you use it, there are ways to help. A battery’s lifespan is related to its “chemical age,” which is more than just the passage of time. It includes different factors, such as the number of charge cycles and how it was cared for. Follow these tips to maximize battery performance and help extend battery lifespan. For example, keep iPhone half-charged when it’s stored for the long term. Also avoid charging or leaving iPhone in hot environments, including direct sun exposure, for extended periods of time.

When batteries chemically age

All rechargeable batteries are consumable components that become less effective as they chemically age. 

As lithium-ion batteries chemically age, the amount of charge they can hold diminishes, resulting in shorter amounts of time before a device needs to be recharged. This can be referred to as the battery’s maximum capacity—the measure of battery capacity relative to when it was new. In addition, a battery’s ability to deliver maximum instantaneous performance, or “peak power,” may decrease. In order for a phone to function properly, the electronics must be able to draw upon instantaneous power from the battery. One attribute that affects this instantaneous power delivery is the battery’s impedance. A battery with a high impedance may be unable to provide sufficient power to the system that needs it. A battery’s impedance can increase if a battery has a higher chemical age. A battery’s impedance will temporarily increase at a low state of charge and in a cold temperature environment. When coupled with a higher chemical age, the impedance increase will be more significant. These are characteristics of battery chemistry that are common to all lithium-ion batteries in the industry.

When power is pulled from a battery with a higher level of impedance, the battery’s voltage will drop to a greater degree. Electronic components require a minimum voltage to properly operate. This includes the device’s internal storage, power circuits, and the battery itself. The power management system determines the capability of the battery to supply this power, and manages the loads in order to maintain operations. When the operations can no longer be supported with the full capabilities of the power management system, the system will perform a shutdown to preserve these electronic components. While this shutdown is intentional from the device perspective, it may be unexpected by the user.

Preventing unexpected shutdowns

With a low battery state of charge, a higher chemical age, or colder temperatures, users are more likely to experience unexpected shutdowns. In extreme cases, shutdowns can occur more frequently, thereby rendering the device unreliable or unusable. For iPhone 6, iPhone 6 Plus, iPhone 6s, iPhone 6s Plus, iPhone SE (1st generation), iPhone 7, and iPhone 7 Plus, iOS dynamically manages performance peaks to prevent the device from unexpectedly shutting down so that the iPhone can still be used. This performance management feature is specific to iPhone and does not apply to any other Apple products. Starting with iOS 12.1, iPhone 8, iPhone 8 Plus, and iPhone X include this feature; iPhone XS, iPhone XS Max, and iPhone XR include this feature starting with iOS 13.1. The effects of performance management on these newer models may be less noticeable due to their more advanced hardware and software design.

This performance management works by looking at a combination of the device temperature, battery state of charge, and battery impedance. Only if these variables require it, iOS will dynamically manage the maximum performance of some system components, such as the CPU and GPU, in order to prevent unexpected shutdowns. As a result, the device workloads will self-balance, allowing a smoother distribution of system tasks, rather than larger, quick spikes of performance all at once. In some cases, a user may not notice any differences in daily device performance. The level of perceived change depends on how much performance management is required for a particular device.

In cases that require more extreme forms of this performance management, the user may notice effects such as:

  • Longer app launch times
  • Lower frame rates while scrolling
  • Backlight dimming (which can be overridden in Control Center)
  • Lower speaker volume by up to -3dB
  • Gradual frame rate reductions in some apps
  • During the most extreme cases, the camera flash will be disabled as visible in the camera UI
  • Apps refreshing in background may require reloading upon launch

Many key areas are not impacted by this performance management feature. Some of these include:

  • Cellular call quality and networking throughput performance
  • Captured photo and video quality
  • GPS performance
  • Location accuracy
  • Sensors like gyroscope, accelerometer, barometer
  • Apple Pay

For a low battery state of charge and colder temperatures, performance management changes are temporary. If a device battery has chemically aged far enough, performance management changes may be more lasting. This is because all rechargeable batteries are consumables and have a limited lifespan, eventually needing to be replaced. If you are impacted by this and would like to improve your device performance, replacing your device battery can help.

For iOS 11.3 and later

iOS 11.3 and later improve this performance management feature by periodically assessing the level of performance management necessary to avoid unexpected shutdowns. If the battery health is able to support the observed peak power requirements, the amount of performance management will be lowered. If an unexpected shutdown occurs again, then performance management will increase. This assessment is ongoing, allowing more adaptive performance management.

iPhone 8 and later use a more advanced hardware and software design that provides a more accurate estimation of both power needs and the battery’s power capability to maximize overall system performance.  This allows a different performance management system that more precisely allows iOS to anticipate and avoid an unexpected shutdown. As a result, the impacts of performance management may be less noticeable on iPhone 8 and later. Over time, the rechargeable batteries in all iPhone models will diminish in their capacity and peak performance and will eventually need to be replaced.

Battery Health

For iPhone 6 and later, iOS 11.3 and later add new features to show battery health and recommend if a battery needs to be replaced. These can be found in Settings > Battery > Battery Health.

Additionally, users can see if the performance management feature that dynamically manages maximum performance to prevent unexpected shutdowns is on and can choose to turn it off. This feature is enabled only after an unexpected shutdown first occurs on a device with a battery that has diminished ability to deliver maximum instantaneous power. This feature applies to iPhone 6, iPhone 6 Plus, iPhone 6s, iPhone 6s Plus, iPhone SE (1st generation), iPhone 7, and iPhone 7 Plus.  Starting with iOS 12.1, iPhone 8, iPhone 8 Plus, and iPhone X include this feature; iPhone XS, iPhone XS Max, and iPhone XR include this feature starting with iOS 13.1. The effects of performance management on these newer models may be less noticeable due to their more advanced hardware and software design.

(Note: Devices updating from iOS 11.2.6 or earlier will initially have performance management disabled; it will be reenabled if the device subsequently experiences an unexpected shutdown.)

All iPhone models include fundamental performance management to ensure that the battery and overall system operates as designed and internal components are protected. This includes behavior in hot or cold temperatures, as well as internal voltage management. This type of performance management is required for safety and expected function, and cannot be turned off.

Your battery’s maximum capacity

The Battery Health screen includes information on maximum battery capacity and peak performance capability.  

Maximum battery capacity measures the device battery capacity relative to when it was new. A battery will have lower capacity as the battery chemically ages which may result in fewer hours of usage between charges. Depending upon the length of time between when the iPhone was made and when it is activated, your battery capacity may show as slightly less than 100%.

A normal battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 500 complete charge cycles when operating under normal conditions. The one-year warranty includes service coverage for a defective battery. If it is out of warranty, Apple offers battery service for a charge. Learn more about charge cycles.

As your battery health degrades, so can its ability to deliver peak performance. The Battery Health screen includes a section for Peak Performance Capability where the following messages may appear.

Performance is normal

When the battery condition can support normal peak performance and does not have the performance management features applied, you’ll see this message:

Your battery is currently supporting normal peak performance.

Performance management applied

When the performance management features have been applied, you’ll see this message:

This iPhone has experienced an unexpected shutdown because the battery was unable to deliver the necessary peak power. Performance management has been applied to help prevent this from happening again. Disable…

Note that if you disable performance management, you can’t turn it back on. It will be turned on again automatically if an unexpected shutdown occurs. The option to disable will also be available.

Battery health unknown

If iOS is unable to determine the device battery health, you’ll see this message:

This iPhone is unable to determine battery health. An Apple Authorized Service Provider can service the battery. More about service options…

This may be due to having an improperly installed battery or an unknown battery part.

Performance management turned off

If you disable the applied performance management feature, you’ll see this message:

This iPhone has experienced an unexpected shutdown because the battery was unable to deliver the necessary peak power. You have manually disabled performance management protections.

If the device experiences another unexpected shutdown, the performance management features will be re-applied. The option to disable will also be available.

Battery health degraded

If battery health has degraded significantly, the below message will also appear:

Your battery’s health is significantly degraded. An Apple Authorized Service Provider can replace the battery to restore full performance and capacity. More about service options…

This message does not indicate a safety issue. Your battery can still be used. However, you may be experiencing more noticeable battery and performance issues. A new replacement battery will improve your experience. More about service options.

Important Battery Message

If you see the message below, it means the battery in your iPhone is unable to be verified. This message applies to iPhone XS, iPhone XS Max, iPhone XR, and later.

Unable to verify this iPhone has a genuine Apple battery. Health information not available for this battery. Learn more…

Reported battery health information is not available. To have your battery checked, contact an Apple Authorized Service Provider. More about service options.

Learn more about this message as it appears on iPhone 11 and iPhone 11 Pro.

Getting further assistance

If your device performance has been impacted by an aged battery and you would like to get help with a battery replacement, contact Apple Support for service options.

Learn more about battery service and recycling.

Recalibration of battery health reporting on iPhone 11, iPhone 11 Pro, and iPhone 11 Pro Max

iOS 14.5 and later includes an update where the battery health reporting system will recalibrate maximum battery capacity and peak performance capability on iPhone 11, iPhone 11 Pro, and iPhone 11 Pro Max to address inaccurate estimates of battery health reporting for some users.

Learn more about recalibration of battery health reporting in iOS 14.5.

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SOLVED: iPhone 5s completely dead board troubleshooting — iPhone 5s

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The Apple iPhone 5s was announced on September 10, 2013. Repair of this device is similar to the previous models, and requires screwdrivers and prying tools. Available as GSM or CDMA / 16, 32, or 64 GB / Silver, Gold, and Space Gray.

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Felipe Kashiwagura

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Hi,

I’ve got a customer’s iPhone 5 that is completely dead. I got 0A on power supply (connected on battery connector) whit power button pressed and released.

I tried hard reset, DFU mode, replace the battery, replace the screen and power on only the board. However the phone doesn’t respond to anything. I take off the shields and checked the board, but it looks ok, no corrosion points, no components smoked.

I would like help to start the board analysis. what is the better points to check in this situation? What is the lines and the values that I need to check?

Thanks

Felipe

UPDATE: I just put the phone to charge and after some minutes the all phone warmed up.

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Minho

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When dealing with a “dead” phone, you have to start at the beginning and check PP_BATT_VCC, PP_VCC_MAIN and PP5V0_USB. I would start by checking to see if those rails are shorted to ground. If one of these rails is shorted to ground, then you will need to identify what is causing the short. It could be a bad decoupling capacitor, conductive debris or defective IC that is directly supplied by those rails.

If they are not shorted, then you can connect, preferably, a known-good battery (or a current limited DC power supply with the appropriate connector adapter) to see what voltage you measure. If the voltage is low or lower than the battery voltage (which you measured before plugging it in ;>), then there could be a short circuit on secondary subsystem that is causing the battery or DCPS to be current-limited.

Then you move onto the PMIC and check the voltage rails it generates:

  • The PMIC generates a lot of voltage rails. They are all important (for obvious reasons) but the ones to check first are as follows: PP_CPU, PP_GPU, PP1V8_SDRAM, PP1V2_SDRAM, PP_VAR_SOC, PP0V95_FIXED_SOC, PP3V0_Tristar, PP3V0_NAND, PP1V8_ALWAYS and PP1V0.
  • The PMIC also generates, what I would consider secondary, yet still important voltage rails for the following sub-systems: PP3V0_MESA, PP1V8_VA_L19_L67, PP3V0_PROX_ALS, PP3V0_PROX_IRLED, PP3V0_IMU, PP3V3_USB

Note: The net names change slightly from one iPhone model to another

Start probing and report back.

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SOLVED: How to charge the battery with a dc power supply? — iPhone 6

Released on September 19, 2014, this 4.7″ screen iPhone is the smaller version of the iPhone 6 Plus. Identifiable by the model numbers A1549, A1586, and A1589.

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Nadav

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how can i charge the iPhone 6 battery using a dc power supply?

if it’s possible then what pins do i connect the wires to and what volt/amps to set?

and also is it possible to connect the iPhone to the dc power supply directly? and if so what pins do i connect the wires to and what volt/amps to set?

thanks

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oldturkey03

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Nadav, not quite sure why you would even try to attempt this. It could be somewhat disastrous to your battery or even your phone, since I am not sure how you want to do this. Anyhow, you will have to place + from the charger to + on the battery, as well as — to — .Your battery is a 3.8V so anything between 4V to 5V and~1A will work. Watch for over charging since you are taking the battery out of a safe circuitry. This image

from here shows the polarity on the logic board connector. Now you just have to mirror it for your battery connector. Again, not sure why you are planning this and I’d think twice about it:-)

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Patrik Egei

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i think it goes like this

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Jelmsfix

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Hello

recalls that the charger that cell are typically brings direct current (the receive AC and converts it to DC) then any cell phone charger so you can charge, then here should see the amp, usually the cases are to charge 1 or 1. 5 amp, it is best not to pass these amp so that the battery is not damaged !!

I hope I have helped you, greetings!

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Gavinle

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apple‘s charger output is 5V 1A, so you can set the output dc for the 5V1A,and then charge the iphone。

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andrew mcgowan

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To test where the negative and positive cables go use a multimeter to see how much voltage is coming out and if the number is positive the negative cable is on the negative and positive so forth, but if it is a negative number switch the cables to correct the orientation.

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iPhone 5 battery replacment failed, due to U2 IC chip malfunction. — iPhone 5

Sixth iteration of Apple iPhone, announced on September 12, 2012. Repair of this device is similar to the previous models, requiring screwdrivers and prying tools. Available as GSM or CDMA / 16, 32, or 64 GB / Black or White.

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Ryan

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I have realized that when the Iphone 5’s U2 IC chip is not working properly, once the battery is 100% dead it is toast. When replacing the battery with a new one the phone works fine, until it has completely drained again. If the phone is on it will charge just as long as it does not 100% deplete its battery life. My question is what happens to the battery that it can never work again? Can I recharge this 100% depleted battery another way, then reinstall as a new fix, instead og buying a new battery every time?

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Pete

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Although not recommended and as a last resort only, it’s possible to charge the battery directly (after removing it from the iPhone) by carefully positioning the exposed black and red wires from a USB cable on the battery connector.

I’ve done this twice with the non-severed end of the USB cable connected to my laptop (only connect it to the laptop AFTER having placed the wires on the battery). This was quite fiddly to accomplish and I had to tape the wires to the tabletop for stability. I used this YouTube video to pinpoint where to place the wires:

I left it for about 15 minutes and after putting it back in the phone had a 10% charge. I was then able to plug my phone in and continue charging the normal way.

If you attempt this, be careful and know the strength of the power source you’re going to plug it into. Also, don’t leave it too long.

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Ahmed Uba

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You need change the usb ic (U2). It’s happens mostly for people using fake usb cable for charging.

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Jack

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If you have already tested multiple batteries and received the same issue, then yes that can be the problem.

Apparently these guys are located in Europe and can replace this IC for you:

Ana Sayfa

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Thomas Strandberg

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I have the same issue. Here is my fix

Whenever the battery dies 100% I open it up and remove the battery (very easy to do with a $3 kit from eBay)

Fortunately my gf has the same phone so I open her’s up, remove her battery then put mine in to charge. Once charged i put the original battery back in my phone and it works. I then put my gf’s battery back in her phone. I can do it now in under 5 min.

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owentait15

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Yes, you can recharge the battery on another iPhone 5 then you can put it back into the iPhone that has the U2 ic broken and it will work fine as long as you keep the battery charged or you will have to charge it in another iPhone 5 just to get it running again. Hope this helps!.

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gul zaib

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It is a business trick of Apple ( I think it is dishonesty) that Apple don’t want it’s users to use old mobiles for long time. That’s why eventually they add some features in new updates which may cause one of old phones not work properly.

An other example is signal disappears on iPhones 4s, after updating to iOS 9

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Micheal

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well first off i would grab a multimeter and test if the battery still has a charge, if you read a voltage its not completely dead the iphone just refuses to charge it when its so low

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Fixmart Laboratory

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Step by step would be irrelevant if you have no experience soldering, but the equipment will cost you more than a new phone . ..

If you want to fix it you can send your iPhone to us and we will reapair it in our lab with this delivery should take about a week , talk to me by email if you are interested

Check my user profile right here for my address.

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James

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https://www.mendmyi.com/blog/2014/06/has…

i have come across this problem and thought it was water damage although the water markers tell a different story. I tested the battery in another phone and low and behold it charged. Once charged enough to power on i put it into the faulty phone and it continued to charge. there’s a few options

1. don’t ever let your phone completely drain of power (not easy)

2. get it fixed as per above link

3. buy a battery bank/charge case and again don’t ever let your phone drain completely

4. take a chance with taking it back to apple for a replacement (not easy either)

Apparently fault is due to using non-apple chargers or car chargers which charge at different voltages that the iPhone isn’t designed for which in turn damages the U2 ic chip.

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Thomas

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Hi,

you can also add a micro USB charging module in parallel to your iPhone battery to charge the battery independently from your iPhone’s main circuit board as described in:

http://www. minimill.at/en/iphone-5c-accu…

It’s basically the same as manually removing your battery each time for charging at a LIPO charging module.

However this requires a lot of electronic skills and voids the warranty!

Hope it helps.

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Achmad Khairi

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Check this

https://ibb. co/mD9t8v

try to check the track at this tp fourth with a multimeter. This track is devoted to checking function usb ic function, in other words u2 in iphone 5. if among the four or all tp contains a small or large ground, means ic u2 short circuit or damaged and immediately replace it. if examined does not contain ground, instead of u2. the size of the short circuit must be true if damage to u2. if there is no short circuit on the fourth tp, please check the battery connector. usually at the time of replacement batteries for the revocation of the battery connector flex too hard and less conscientious, could make battery connector on the pcb become shaky, as a result the battery is not detected by the gas gauge and the circuit is directly protected by way of breaking the current to the battery lines. iphone will reboot loop. if this is the case, then immediately re-solder on swi bat and bat pin ntc. Safety plug the battery into the meeting, in order to avoid a gap between the spark plug.

I am happy to join here, to share knowledge and experience sharing.

you are all professional technicians?

solve problems and continue to learn ,,, good night …

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Cousin John

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If you can’t change the U2 chip, change the board that houses the chip..

This will solve the draining battery issues.

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iPhone 5 Battery Replacement Price in Kenya

Replacement Battery for the iPhone 5

This Apple iPhone 5 replacement battery is ideal if your phone is no longer holding charge like it used to. Are you finding your iPhone battery has a shorter life than it used to? Is your phone barely holding any charge at all? If either of these sounds familiar then you need a replacement battery. Apple iPhone 5 is a great phone with great features, but low battery backup time can be really annoying when in need.

When do you know that your iPhone 5 battery needs to be replaced?

  • Your iPhone 5 dies at 20 or 30 percent battery capacity.
  • The battery is swollen and pushes the screen out of the frame.
  • Your iPhone 5 keeps dying faster during the day without recharging.
  • The battery fails at a high or low temperature.

Before purchasing a replacement check that no other factors are causing the batteries to decline such as:

  • Moving to a low signal area
  • Running background applications
  • Having 3G, Wi-Fi or Bluetooth enabled when not required

Increase your Apple iPhone 5 uptime & life with this quality replacement battery. Our specialists will take between 15 and 30 minutes to replace your iPhone 5 battery.

An iPhone 5 is your gadget companion for life’s great adventures – from a cross-country road trip to accompanying you to your day job. You may use it to check the weather, scan the headlines, talk with friends and family, boast about new high scores, or for directions to get to a new restaurant. But what happens if you are counting on it and suddenly the battery dies?

You are certain that you charged your phone the night before, and yet the battery just didn’t last through the day – leaving you without your go-to method of communication, play, and information. If this happens on a regular basis, you may need iPhone 5 battery replacement. Read on to find out more.

Must-know Facts About iPhone 5 Battery Life

The typical iPhone 5 battery life varies based on the activities it is being utilized to accomplish. For instance, it averages around 8 hours of talk time or 3G internet connection, or 10 hours of wi-fi or video playback. But it can last through 40 hours of audio or up to 225 hours on standby.

What does this mean? It means that when assessing your iPhone battery life, don’t immediately assume that it should last a week on a full charge. Take what you use it for and how often you use it into consideration. It may only last a day (or even less), but that doesn’t mean it’s a bad battery! You can take your device into a Phone View Kenya store or an Apple store to test your battery’s capacity and verify if it is truly something that needs repair as opposed to a bad charging cable, port, or just overuse.

How Much Does It Cost?

Depending on your chosen method of replacement (see the options below), you may pay anywhere from $50-100 for iPhone 5 battery replacement service. Apple offers battery replacement for $79, plus $6.95 shipping and appropriate state tax.

If you believe your battery is just wearing out from age and use, consider taking steps to extend battery life on a daily basis. Simple setting changes like turning down screen brightness or turning on auto brightness will save battery, as will disabling animations and dynamic background screens. Use common sense such as turning wifi and Bluetooth off when they are not in use.

iPhone 5 Battery Replacement Services

Apple Store Official Repair Service

A certain percentage of iPhone 5 devices may seem to have a shorter battery life or need to be charged more often. If this is the case for you and you bought your phone between September 2012 and January 2013, you may be eligible for the free battery replacement program. Check here for more information.

Otherwise, iPhone 5 battery is covered under the Limited One Year Warranty only if the defect is due to manufacturing. If you need to repair/replace the battery of your iPhone after one year or because of some accidental damage, you can submit a repair request or speak with an Apple Genius in store or online. The repair will take anywhere between 3-5 business days.

iPhone 5 Battery Replacement with High Capacity? Turn to CPR!

Apple will only a replace a battery that has fallen below 50% capacity. The same is true of many other smartphone repair stores. If you take your device into a Phone View Kenya location, the technicians can give you a free assessment of your iPhone 5 battery capacity, as well as anything else that might be awry or causing you charging and battery life issues. (By the way, Phone View Kenya provides all kinds of iPhone 5 repairs !)

If you get your battery replaced, ensure that it is a genuine iPhone 5 battery with high capacity. In other words, stay away from used batteries that sell online for cheap – there’s a reason that they are so inexpensive. Your best option is to buy a new battery through Apple or a trusted store like Phone View Kenya which offers a limited lifetime warranty on parts.

How to Replace iPhone 5 Battery (A DIY Guide)

For some, it may be a cheap alternative to learn how to replace an iPhone 5 battery. If you are considering this option, you must first understand how to remove a battery from the iPhone 5:

  1. Power off your device.
  2. Remove the two pentalobe screws near the Lightning connector.
  3. Press a suction cup to the screen just above the home button. (Use tape first to cover and seal the screen in the case that it is cracked.)
  4. Press down gently on the edges of the phone and lift up with the suction cup. The front and back panels will separate slightly.
  5. Insert plastic opening device between the panels and gently pry around the edges. Detaching the clips on the right and left sides that hold the case together.
  6. Lift the front panel up about 90 degrees. From the rear panel with the tops still close together (as there will still be ribbon cables attached at the top).
  7. Locate the silver front panel assembly cable bracket to the top right-hand side of the battery. Unscrew the three screws attaching it to the logic board (and pay attention to where each individual screw goes).
  8. Lift and remove the front panel assembly cable bracket. Locate the three cables hidden beneath, and disconnect these with the plastic opening tool.
  9. Completely separate the front and rear panels of the phone.
  10. Locate metal battery connector bracket to the lower right side of the battery. (It looks like a skinny backward “J.”) Remove the two lower screws on the metal battery connector bracket.
  11. Use the plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector bracket up from the socket on the logic board. Take care not to pry up the socket, or you could damage the connector.
  12. Pull slowly and smoothly on the clear plastic pull tab until your battery detaches and comes free. If it does not come free, you can use the plastic opening tool. But be warned that doing so in the wrong place may permanently damage the logic board.
  13. Replace battery and all parts in reverse. Power on your device and voila!

(Think carefully before you decide on this course of action. Opening up your device will nullify warranties that may still exist on your device. In addition, internal repairs are always best handled by experts like those at Phone View Kenya so that no further damage comes to your device.)

Age, use, settings, and defects are all aspects to take into consideration when assessing if you might need any phone battery replacement. You may choose to live with a battery at a lower capacity, talk with an Apple store Genius, or even try to figure out how to replace an iPhone 5 battery yourself with our DIY guide.

If you need help making this decision, Phone View Kenya is here to help! With stores across the country and in Nairobi Kenya, you can walk in and get a free consultation to discover if your iPhone 5 battery is at high capacity or if it needs repair. They will also provide you with an estimate that you can compare with Apple’s iPhone 5 battery replacement service and cost. Forget the hassle of doing the repair yourself and potentially further damaging your device. With Phone View Kenya, you will get personal service and have your phone back in your hands and running smoothly again within a day or two. Find a store

Find more iPhone Batteries here

Apple iPhone Authorized Service Center

iPhone battery connector pinout and battery replacement

Contents

  • 1 Battery connection iPhone 3G, 3S
  • 2 Battery pinout iPhone 4, 4S
  • 3 Battery polarity iPhone 5S, 5C, 5G
  • 4 Battery pinout iPhone 6, iPhone 6S
  • 5 Battery connection iPhone 7 Plus

  • 6 Battery connection iPhone 8, iPhone 8 Plus
  • 7 Do-it-yourself iPhone battery replacement
  • 8 Video instructions for replacing the battery in iPhone

Apple never ceases to delight with new iPhone smartphones every year. This gadget is multifunctional, easy to use, has a stylish design. But, like any electronic equipment, Apple phones can fail. Most often, simply due to the wear of the battery, which is located inside the case, and replacing it is not as easy as in conventional smartphones from other manufacturers. You will have to disassemble it and look for the pinout to determine the polarity of the battery to measure it.

The editors of the site 2 Schemy.ru collected pinout and connection diagrams for the entire line of iPhones, which will definitely come in handy when repairing this phone.

iPhone 3G, 3S battery connection

Battery voltage must be 3.8v to start normally. At the same time, check the voltage on 1 and 2, if you have an iPhone 3G, then the voltage should be about the same as on 1 and 4, if 3Gs — about half as much.

iPhone 4, 4S battery pinout

With a normally working battery, the voltage should be around 3.7-4.2 volts.

iPhone 5S, 5C, 5G battery polarity

This smartphone will require battery replacement at least as often as previous models (on average, the battery lasts well for a year).

iPhone 6, iPhone 6S battery pinout0003

According to official information, the battery capacity of the iPhone 6 Plus is 2915 mAh, and the iPhone 6 is 1810 mAh.

iPhone 7, iPhone 7 Plus battery connection

Certification documents revealed: iPhone 7 Plus — 2900 mAh battery, iPhone 7 — 1960 mAh battery.

Battery connection iPhone 8, iPhone 8 Plus

The new iPhone 8 and iPhone 8 Plus have lower battery capacity than the previous line. So the battery capacity of the iPhone 8 is 1821 mAh, and the iPhone 8 Plus has the smallest battery among all iPhone Plus models — 2675 mAh. True, Apple claims that the iPhone 8 has up to 14 hours of talk time or up to 40 hours of music playback, the iPhone 8 Plus — up to 21 hours of phone calls or up to 60 hours of music playback.

Do-it-yourself iPhone battery replacement

If a poor-quality repair is carried out, the symptoms will appear very quickly — the device works exclusively on charging, discharges too quickly, and does not turn on at all with a new battery. But here the problem is rather in the battery itself, which is often put in cheap Chinese for the sake of economy. Not sure which one you got? So next time, do the battery replacement yourself, according to the instructions given.

Be careful not to pull the battery connector too hard out of the socket, as the socket is soldered to the main board and the tracks underneath may peel off!

When to replace the iPhone battery:

  • A full charge lasts less than 6 hours at maximum activity
  • iPhone drains quickly in the cold
  • iPhone turns off at 50% — 20% charge
  • iPhone not charging (may show apple and show low battery again)
  • iPhone does not turn on (starting with the 5G model, in 30% of cases the battery is the culprit)
  • Sometimes the battery swells, thereby “squeezing out” the display module, sometimes the glass and even the display itself crack due to this.
  • Before you start disassembling your iPhone, you need to turn it off.
  • Remove the two 3. 6 mm Apple-branded five-blade screws located near the dock connector. Apple’s 5-blade screwdriver is only used to remove screws!
  • Slide the back cover towards the top edge of the iPhone. The lid will move up 2 mm.
  • Detach the back cover from the iPhone, being careful not to damage the plastic latch that secures the back cover.
  • Remove the back cover from the iPhone.
  • Remove the following screws that secure the battery connector to the main board: one 1.7 mm Phillips head screw. One 1.5 mm Phillips head screw
  • Using a plastic opener, pry the battery connector out of the socket on the main board.
  • Start removing the connector from the underside of the connector by inserting the tip of a spatula between the loudspeaker unit and the metal cover of the connector.
  • Disconnect the battery connector vertically from the central board. Do not disconnect the connector by trying to lift it from the side.
  • Note the pin that is pressurized by the battery connector screw. Contact may loosen when you remove the connector from the socket!
  • Using a plastic opener, disconnect the pressurized contact from the battery connector.
  • Note how the small black ground latch is located, which is located in the area of ​​​​the top screw of the battery connector. This latch is located near the top screw of the connector. When replacing, the latch must be aligned, as a gold latch is attached to it, which presses against the back cover!
  • Be careful not to pull the battery connector too hard out of the socket as the socket is soldered to the main board.
  • Insert the edge of the opener between the battery and the wall of the inner case as shown.
  • Using a plastic opener, move along the right edge of the battery, lift up the battery a little to separate it from the adhesive that is applied to the case under the battery.
  • Pull the plastic tab to release the battery.
  • Remove the old battery.
  • Insert a new battery and assemble the phone in reverse order.

Video instructions for replacing the battery in iPhone

Using the iPhone battery in the development of wearable electronics / Sudo Null IT News

Greetings, reader.

Quite often I have the task of developing portable devices powered by a single Li-ion battery cell. And, if the customer is usually not worried about this, then as an experienced engineer, at the sight of such a technical specification, a shiver runs down my back. This is due to the fact that estimating the battery charge level as well as the remaining operating time is a very difficult task, although at first glance it may seem otherwise.

There are several options in this case, we will talk about them below.

The simplest thing is to do nothing to determine the battery charge level. Charging circuit on a simple linear charger (for example, on TP4054) and a voltage converter to power the device. It will turn off without warning and at the most inopportune moment.

Measure battery voltage. The result is approximately the same as the previous paragraph, but requiring more effort. Typical scheme for measurement:

In fact, this is a voltage divider on resistors R19 and R21, connected through the VT6 key. Transistor VT7 is needed to eliminate the parasitic power supply of the MK through the EN pin.
VBAT — battery voltage
VBAT_mes — voltage coming to ADC
EN — divider control signal (0-off, 1-on)

Now we know the battery voltage, we are great fellows. BUT it does almost nothing! The fact is that the typical Li-ion battery discharge curve, to put it mildly, is not linear and it depends on the current consumption and the temperature of the battery itself:0003

Looking at these graphs, what is the remaining battery capacity at 3. 5V? I don’t think so…

This method can be slightly improved by using the thermal sensor built into the MCU to roughly estimate the temperature of the battery, and either put a sensor to measure the current, or (if the current consumption is approximately constant) plot a discharge curve for a typical current consumption. This will at least slightly justify the labor costs, but there can be no question of any accuracy. To indicate the charge on 3 LEDs — yes, it will.

In the case of constant current consumption, you can read the operating time from the battery and evaluate the consumed charge and the time spent on charge to estimate the accumulated charge. This method gives a cumulative error, since the calibration can only be at two points (full charge or full discharge), and they are not always achieved. In addition, as the battery wears out, the maximum operating time should be adjusted, but in general, the method has the right to life.

Make your own battery charge monitoring system (BMS). To implement it, we need current, temperature and battery voltage sensors. We believe that the MK is already in the device and it remains “only” to write software for it, which once took me a little less than a year.

Take a ready-made Gas Gauge chip (for example, from TI or Maxim Integrated), configure it, calibrate it and run it. For example, the circuit for bq27220:

There are several nuances when choosing this concept:

  1. Gas Gauge, which allow the battery to be disconnected. In the first case, the battery of your device becomes unique and its replacement is possible only with your participation, which is not always convenient. In the second case, there is a problem of placing a temperature sensor on the battery.
  2. High cost solution. Main components: Gas Gauge chip, protection chip, transistors, thermistor, current sensor resistor.

Use simpler ready-made solutions like CW2015:

This is the Chinese equivalent of the MAX17048 chip. An absolutely simple microcircuit without temperature and current sensors, with a correspondingly low accuracy, but at the same time cheap, easy to use and program. It has the ability to work on the side of the device, which allows you not to modify the battery itself. The microcircuit was found in the vastness of the network in the process of writing the material, there is no experience with it, but there is a desire to try it, since the option is really interesting. Perhaps in the next article I will talk about this chip in more detail.

And finally, the last method known to me, to which I want to devote today’s article. In my opinion, this method is the simplest, but gives the best result. It consists in the fact that we take a battery from an iPhone with a built-in Gas Gauge and protection, connect via HDQ or I2C, poll and work. In this case, the battery is already assembled and calibrated. Below is a table with battery options known to me:

The table is partially taken from the sites ripitapart. com and www.macplus.ru. Please pay special attention to the unknown controller marked A1141. This chip is manufactured by PowerFlash and that’s all the information we could find. The author of the blog from which I took the table was not sure that he got the original battery from the iPhone SE. Thanks to feedback asterix_tyumen , who dismantled the original battery from SE, it was found that it contains sn27545. Below we will be forced to consider A1141 in more detail. But for now, let’s look at the batteries:

As you can see, batteries for every taste and color, with and without an apple. They can also be connected in parallel to increase capacity, with separate polling. Of the shortcomings, it is worth noting that the length / width proportions are approximately 3:1, which is not always convenient, as well as a unique connector for connecting. Due to the popularity of Apple phones, these batteries can be easily bought in many places and in large quantities (as it turned out, this is not entirely true).

This is exactly the path we took when developing the wireless standalone RFID reader.

We chose a battery from the iPhone 6, which suited us both in terms of capacity and dimensions. Several copies were purchased in different places for testing:

The right one was bought in China, the rest in Moscow. Cost $6-11. When they are tested, quite interesting results will be obtained. Pay special attention to the box with the inscription «Orig», we will return to it later. Testing was done using the RFID reader itself, TI’s EV2300 programmer, and Battery Management Studio.

RFID reader power circuit is shown in the figure:

Linear charger based on STC4054 (TP4054), charging current 500 mA, power switch with auto-recovery based on reed switch SF1, capacitor C19, diode VD4 and resistor R15, as well as a pulse converter based on NCP1529.

The first I connected a copy from China for $6:

The battery responds, BUT the current was not displayed either when charging or discharging, the voltage did not correspond to the actually measured one and the degree of charge did not change. The battery did not respond to commands. There was an assumption that this copy is a fake, so I removed the protective tape from it to look at the board:

That’s a turn… I didn’t even redraw the circuit — here it’s clear that there is a bq27545 emulator and an overdischarge/overcharge protection circuit. Immediately the idea came to save yourself time and open all the batteries.

The neighbor to the left of the Chinese colleague for $ 8 is similar with a difference in the markings on the microcircuits. The rest behaves the same. These 2 copies go straight to the trash. Unfortunately, I did not have an iPhone 6 on hand to test these batteries in the target device, it was very interesting to see how the phone would behave when running on these batteries.

And this is the $8 central battery. It even has a current sensor and some kind of 8-pin microcircuit with a modest 6G3 marking. In Battery Management Studio, this battery pretends to be bq27545 more artfully. Displays the charge level, correct voltage, battery current. But if it were all real, then the fake wouldn’t be fake. In reality, the temperature was set to a constant, the current was measured very poorly. The picture shows the current consumption of the RFID reader, which is measured by the battery while constantly reading the card.

In reality, it is ~55 mA for this mode of operation, and since the reader field is always on, it cannot be zero. When charging (when the current is constant over a long period of time), the current sensor works normally. Naturally, all other parameters are calculated incorrectly (charge level, operating time until full discharge, etc.). The FC (Full charge) flag is set at 4.4V.

The battery does not respond to commands, the QEN and RUP_DIS flags are not set. In general, this is an unsuccessful attempt by the Chinese to write a snag bq27545 on MK (in any case, I think it is). Also in the trash.

Remember, I asked you to pay special attention to the copy in the box with the inscription «Original»? It was he who turned out to be as close as possible to what we were looking for (and how can we not believe the advertisement now?):

Its cost was $9. In the center, the chip marked SN27545 is clearly visible — this is exactly what we were looking for. With this instance, I began to work more closely. Problems arose during the trial charge-discharge cycle. I could not get the FC (Full charge) flag set, which meant the end of the charge process. The charge current at a battery voltage close to 4.2V became extremely small (about 20mA) and the charging process threatened to never end. One of the possible reasons turned out to be a USB cable with a large voltage drop (4.5V reached the memory chip), we replaced it with a better one with a lower voltage drop. The indicators improved, the battery was charged to 4.2V, the current dropped to 0, but the SOC (State of charge) only reached 85, so the FC flag was not set.

For several days I cycled with the expectation that the battery would learn, but this did not help. The problem turned out to be commonplace, but it took 2 days to find it. At some point, I noticed that the battery was 4. 35V and this was the answer to all questions. The memory is standard at 4.2V and I did not pay attention at all that the battery is 4.35V and an incomplete charge occurs. Since the boards were already manufactured, the only way out of the situation was to find a replacement STC4054 with a voltage of 4.35V. It turned out that such microcircuits exist, but in our great country you can’t easily buy them (apparently unpopular from the word at all). Therefore, the MCP73832T-3 variant was ordered with a wait of a couple of weeks.

In the meantime, the order is on its way, we will make a collective farm patch to test the concept. To do this, we will make a “backup” of 0.15V for the memory chip using a diode:

,15V).

It is important to note that you can charge up to 4.2V with a corresponding loss of ~ 15% of capacity, but at the same time significantly extend the life of the battery. We have finished with the Orig copy — it can be safely put into development.

Last copy left. The most expensive ($11), in the coolest packaging and requiring the most time for myself. Let’s look at what’s inside:

Here it is an unknown chip A1141 for which there is no documentation other than the manufacturer’s page. With a forced connection as to bq27545 in Battery Management Studio, we see the following picture:

Complete garbage. When trying to charge with a current of ~ 500 mA, it shows 125 mA, when discharging with a current of ~ 25 mA, it shows 214 mA. It is clear that if A1141 has other parameter addresses or a data storage format different from bq27545, then nothing will shine with this battery without documentation. Therefore, it was put aside, but at the end of writing the material, I decided to connect it again. I took the instruction table of the chip bq27545:

And read the voltage registers (0x08 and 0x09) through the Advanced Comm menu:

We get 0x10<<8 | 0x38 \u003d 4152 or 4. 152V, which corresponds to the voltage measured by the multimeter 4.15V. So if the data is correct, why is 57mV displayed in the program ??? We notice that 57mV is exactly 0x38, that is, the value of the 0x08 register. With a battery voltage of 4.152V, the charge level of 96% looks quite correct, it can be obtained by reading registers 0x2c and 0x2d. Read 0x2c = 0x60, 0x2d = 0 (in the case of the SOC parameter, the high register is always zero). There was an assumption that the program or the EV2300 cannot read (or the battery does not respond) either the high byte in the request, or the byte with an odd address. To test this theory, the battery was connected directly to the RFID reader and the battery was polled through the MC. The HDQ interface has been implemented according to a document from TI. The bq27545 microcircuit uses the single-wire HDQ protocol to communicate with the control controller, which is quite conveniently implemented on the STM32 based on a single-wire UART due to support for the Half Duplex mode.

our RFID reader is powered by MicroPython, we wrapped the HDQ work in a class and got the charge controller work like this:

from hdq import HDQ
bat = HDQ(pyb.UART(1))
bat.charge() # charge
bat.read_u16(0x14) # random register

It turned out that A1141 did not respond to a request to read bytes with odd addresses.

The oscillogram shows that there is a request, but no answer. When they added a reload of the data exchange logic (Break) before each request — every other time, but the microcircuit began to respond correctly.

Then we compared the exchange rate of the EV2300 and the RFID reader and it turned out that the EV2300 uses a rate lower by 10-15% than set by TI:

After reducing the HDQ rate and performing Break on each request, the battery worked fine! The main parameters of the battery were read:

Complete victory! In fact, A1141 turned out to be a quality clone of bq27545 with minor flaws. It remains to talk about the nuances of working with the battery from the software side (using sleep modes, wakeup current, etc.), but this will double the amount of recording and, perhaps, I will write this another time.

Terminals

As you can see, there are many options when designing devices powered by Li-ion batteries. To be honest, it was originally planned to write material in the style of came, saw, won, but in the process a lot of nuances came out (the fight against A1141 is especially good) and the material turned out to be very interesting and extensive. Of the 5 batteries, only 2 can actually be used normally. Therefore, the choice of supplier in this case is very relevant. If you have seen batteries from other devices that contain BMS, then write the models in the comments. Thank you all for your attention!

90,000 iPhone 5 battery in the mound

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Battery (battery) for Apple iPhone 5S 3.8V 5.92Wh 5

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What will happen to the battery in the iPhone 12? Exploring Rumors — Wylsacom

Strange information has appeared.

The batteries of all four versions of the iPhone 12 will not please with the nominal capacity. It is reported by MyDrivers. The publication refers to regulators, where three battery models were recently registered, which are supposed to be installed in the iPhone 12, iPhone 12 Max, iPhone 12 Pro and iPhone 12 Pro Max.

According to the publication, the smallest model, the size of which will be something between the first and second generations of the iPhone SE, will boast a conventional battery capacity of 2227 mAh.

iPhone 12 mockup compared to SE and 7 — size is amazing!

The conditional capacity of the battery, which will receive a 6.1-inch iPhone 12 Max and iPhone 12 Pro, will be 2775 mAh. And the largest iPhone 12 Pro Max with a 6.7-inch display will receive a battery with a nominal capacity of 3687 mAh.

But there are a few problems here. I will show them in a comparative table of two generations:

Models 2019 model nominal battery capacity 2020 model battery nominal capacity
iPhone 12 No predecessor 2227 mAh
iPhone 11 / iPhone 12 Max 3110 mAh 2775 mAh
iPhone 11 Pro / iPhone 12 Pro 3046 mAh 2775 mAh
iPhone 11 Pro Max / iPhone 12 Pro Max 3969 mAh 3687 mAh

And then the question arises: why does the capacity decrease? For example, I understand the logic only regarding the iPhone 12 Max, which is the successor to the iPhone 11 — the dimensions of this model will be closer to the iPhone 11 Pro than to the iPhone 11. That is why the iPhone 12 Max and 12 Pro have identical capacity.

But why the battery capacity of the iPhone 12 Pro came close to that of the iPhone XS (2658 mAh) is not at all clear to me. Because it’s not very clear what prevents you from maintaining the same capacity. Display? It will be enlarged due to the flat edges, which are rounded on the iPhone 11 Pro. 5G modem? He doesn’t take up much space.

It is known that the camera block of the «firmware» will definitely take up more space: part of the space will be «eaten» by LiDAR. Another part will be occupied by optical stabilization of the matrix, which takes up much more space than a lens stub, like all modern smartphones. As an exception, where this technology is already used, I will cite the vivo X50 and X50 +. The company released a promo video showing the approximate dimensions of this module:

But the iPhone 12 Max will not get either lidar or gimbal stabilization. There will not even be an optical zoom, but only wide and ultra wide. Therefore, a reasonable question arises: why does it have the same battery? It will, of course, work longer than the iPhone 12 Pro due to the 60 Hz screen, when the older model will have 120 Hz. But the almost 400mAh regression from its predecessor in the form of the iPhone 11 looks significant.

Therefore, it seems to me personally that MyDrivers published unverified rumors that have nothing to do with reality. Let’s add to this the fact that the author of the source text did not bother to find the capacity indicators in mAh of existing models, being content with erroneous numbers. He said that the iPhone 11 has 3110 mAh, the iPhone 11 Pro has 3190 mAh, while the iPhone 11 Pro Max has 3500 mAh.

On the other hand, all models of the iPhone 12 family will receive processors made using the 5nm process technology. This should play a good role in overall energy efficiency, since the smaller the process technology, the less the capacitors on it consume energy. True, this works provided that the number of capacitors does not increase. And Apple will most likely keep the A14 processor identical in size to the A13. That is, the number of capacitors will increase, and the power consumption will remain approximately at the same level.

Case layouts for all iPhone models 12. Source: Wylsacom Media

In all my reviews and news regarding the release of a particular device, I call the indicated battery capacity in mAh conditional. Because mAh is not the indicator that will give you an understanding of how long this or that smartphone will work.

Suppose you have two identical smartphones with the same firmware, the same set of software and the same 4000 mAh battery. Only one of them works twice less than the second. The fact is that the first smartphone has a battery with a nominal voltage of 3.7 V, while the second one has a 7.4 V battery.

The capacity indicated by manufacturers in mAh is such a marketing ploy. It sounds simple, it is written simply, and most smartphones have the same nominal voltage. But only this indicator does not give a clear idea of ​​​​the operating time of the device, and for greater objectivity, you need to indicate the capacity in Wh. But to find out this indicator, you just need to multiply Ah by the rated voltage in volts.

How to replace the battery on the iPhone 5S? 📱 — step by step instructions with photo

You’ll need:

  • 1. Battery replacement kit for iPhone 5S, iPhone 5C ZeepDeep

    battery replacement kit for iPhone 5S, iPhone 5C ZeepDeep: battery, tool kit, adhesive strips, step by step instructions

    684 rubles

  • 3. Shoulder

    spatula for opening cases — knitting needle

    35 p.

  • To change the battery in iPhone 5s you will need:

    • battery
    • screwdriver
    • paddle
    • tweezers
    • suction cup
    • guitar pick

    Before removing the battery, you must first remove the display module. Below we describe 2 ways to do this. Let’s go!

    !WARNING!
    * Do not puncture the battery under any circumstances!
    * Be especially careful if the old battery is swollen.
    * When dismantling the old battery, do not use sharp objects (including a screwdriver) to «pry» the battery.
    * If the battery does not peel off well from the case, heat the CASE and not the battery with a hair dryer, the surface of the case should not burn your finger, the optimum temperature of the heated plane of the case is 60 degrees Celsius.
    * In the most difficult cases, use dental floss or fishing line to pass over the upper corners of the battery and evenly separate the battery from the case.

    For optimal performance after replacement, calibrate the newly installed battery: charge it to 100% and continue charging for at least two hours. Then use your iPhone until it turns off due to low battery. Finally, charge it up to 100%.

Step 2 —Turn off the phone

    First, turn off the phone and pull out all the wires from it. Well, in a sense, turn it off from charging.

    Remove the two 3.9 mm long screws located to the left and right of the charge socket.

Step 3 —Using a double suction cup

    The following 2 steps will show you how to remove the display module from the phone case using extraterrestrial technology, as shown in the photo. Her name is the superdouble double-sided suction cup!

    If you have such a thing, then we envy you. And if not, then go to step 5.

    In general, let’s start torturing the phone with this miracle device.

    Squeeze the tool handle. Place your phone between the suction cups. Open the tool handle. The display will most likely separate from the case. That’s all foreign engineering.

    Go to step 8.

Step 4 —Use a simple suction cup

    And this step is for those who do not need any tools, for those who have strong, but soft fingers to pull out any details.

    And the most common suction cup with a ring at the end will help us open the phone. Well, or without. Then you have to work with your teeth.

    Stick it firmly just above the HOME button.

Step 5 —Open the display

    The display module is attached to the body with special plastic clips, and a cable is hidden under the HOME button, which is easy to tear if the smartphone is opened too sharply.

    So don’t overdo it and don’t need anything yet to get. It is necessary to slightly open the display module and disconnect the cable.

    And so, make sure that the suction cup is firmly stuck to the display.

    While holding the phone with one hand, start pulling up on the suction cup with the other hand. Then, take a spatula and use it to hold the phone. Do everything according to the photo, how to change the battery in iPhone 5s. While pulling on the suction cup, do not change your force and be patient. Removing the display from the 5s is one of the more difficult steps.

Step 6 —Remove suction cup

    Do not try to disconnect the display module immediately, do not forget the button cable! It is easy to tear and will then need repair.

    After detaching the display, remove the suction cup.

Step 7 —Open the display

    Now open the display module a little so that you can remove the metal plug of the button cable.

    Again, although you have already been warned, before replacing the part — do not immediately pull the display up, to the side, etc. You risk breaking the button cable. And if you break it, you can forget about fingerprint unlocking. Here is such a sad thing L

    You can remove the metal plug with tweezers and a spatula.

Step 8 — Disconnect cable

    Use the sharp end of a pair of tweezers to remove the cable.

    Be sure to unplug the cable connector and not the whole connector.

Step 9 — Bend display

    Excellent! After unhooking the cable, you can bend the display module further. Well, as in the photo.

    Hold the display module at 90 degrees to the phone body.

Step 10 — Remove screws

    Now let’s unscrew the following screws that secure some kind of metal thing to the motherboard:

    By the way, do not use a magnetized screwdriver to remove the last screw. And then your compass will then fail and, suddenly, you will also get lost in the forest?

    And don’t forget to remember in what order you unscrewed and pulled out the screws. Then, during assembly, they will need to be screwed into their holes. And you don’t have to tighten them too much.

Step 11 — Removing the metal plate

Step 12 — Disconnecting cables

    Now we arm ourselves with tweezers and disconnect the cables marked in the Apple photo.

Step 13 — Disconnect touchscreen cable

    While holding the display module with your hand, disconnect the touch screen cable.

Step 14 —Disconnect display cable

    Finally, disconnect the display cable.

    P.S. When assembling the phone, it is likely that you may not have connected the display cable properly. You will understand this if there are any stripes, noise, etc. on the screen when the new display is turned on. In short, just disconnect the battery, reconnect the cable again, reconnect the battery and check again. Repeat until it works properly.

Step 15 — Pull out the battery

    Now we take out the old battery from the phone and throw it away (well, if it is not working, of course).

Step 16 — Remove screws

    We unscrew the screws that hold the battery cable hostage.

Step 17 — Removing the metal piece

Step 18 — Disconnect cable

Step 19 — Insert the tweezers into the adhesive tab

    Use the sharp end of the tweezers again and insert it into the hole in the black adhesive tab (to be honest, we did not understand what we wrote ourselves). See photo for clarity.

Step 20 —Pull out tab

    Slightly pull this very tab straight up.

    Cut it into 2 parts.

Step 21 — Pull out the near part to the battery

    Now you need to pull out the part that is closer to the battery.

    Grab the tongue half and begin to pull it up at a 45 degree angle with even force.

    Do not twist or tear the white strip. And then atata.

    Pull this strip, resembling a flat long worm, slowly and carefully, throwing it around the corner of the battery.

    Pull and pull until completely pulled out.

Step 22 — Do the same with the second strip

    Do the same with the second strip.

    If, however, one strip is torn before you remove it, then do not panic. Battery replacement in iPhone 5s continues! Now you will need to heat the glue.

    An ordinary hair dryer will help us. Ask your mom, grandma or girlfriend for it.

    Heat the back of the phone, where the battery is approximately.

Step 23 — Remove the layer of adhesive

    After heating, stick something flat and thin between the battery and the case (like our jokes), such as a spatula.

    And move it inside there, thereby destroying the layer of glue.

Step 24 — Remove the battery from the phone

    Remove the battery from the phone.

    That’s it! Well done 🙂 Do-it-yourself battery replacement in iPhone 5s is done.

    To change the battery in iPhone 5s you will need:

    • battery
    • screwdriver
    • paddle
    • tweezers
    • suction cup
    • plectrum

Step 25

Step 26

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    — What do I need to replace the battery on my iPhone 5S?
    To replace the battery on the iPhone 5S, you will need: battery, screwdriver, spatula, tweezers, suction cup, pick.

    — What is important to remember when replacing the battery on the iPhone 5S?
    When dismantling the old battery, do not use sharp objects. Do not try to immediately disconnect the display module, do not forget about the button cable.

    — What should be feared?
    When assembling the phone, it is likely that you may not have connected the display cable properly. If this story is about you, then disconnect the battery, reconnect the cable again, connect the battery back and check again.

    So, to summarize:

    To replace the battery on an iPhone 5S, you need to follow these steps:

  1. Turn off the phone, slightly open the display using the suction cup.
  2. Remove the plug, unhook the button cable with a plastic spatula.
  3. Tilt the display, disconnect the cables of the touchscreen, display module, battery.
  4. Remove the battery.

You’ll need:

  • 1. Battery replacement kit for iPhone 5S, iPhone 5C ZeepDeep

    battery replacement kit for iPhone 5S, iPhone 5C ZeepDeep: battery, tool kit, adhesive strips, step by step instructions

    684 rubles

  • 3. Shoulder

    spatula for opening cases — knitting needle

    35 p.