Logitech G5 scroll wheel replacement
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First remove the upper and lower mouse foot with a spudger.
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You can remove any adhesive residue with an alcohol pad.
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Eject the weight magazine before disassembly and set it aside.
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- Place the spudger between the scroll wheel and the scroll wheel bracket and carefully lift out the wheel.
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Place the new mouse wheel in the holder and make sure it snaps into place.
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The scroll wheel has a diameter of 2.4 mm. Scroll wheels of the following Logitech models should be compatible: M305, M505, V220, V320, V450.
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My G5 mouse broke ;( What’s a good replacement?
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I bought my Logitech G5 some time around 2009. It died on me recently so I thought I’d look for a similar feeling replacement. I like the way it was quite chunky so I could rest most of my hand on it. I liked the 2 big buttons on the side. And another cool thing is that the cord was covered in quite a rigid woven material which kept it sliding across the desk without bunching up if it got caught on something.
Any suggestions for a nice modern replacement (I already know about the G500)? It doesn’t have to be just like the G5, it doesn’t have to be made by Logitech, it doesn’t need loads of buttons (just 2 big buttons on the side is good enough), but something similar feeling would be cool.
Thanks
Edit: I want a wired mouse rather than wireless.
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the current mouse in that lineup is the Logitech G403, it’s not quite as wide and slightly different shape, but it is very nice.
best performing mouse on the market currently in many ways.
newest batches have most small errors all sorted out too, so build quality is great generally. has a braided cable as well.
also comes in 4 versions — wired, wireless. and G603 and G703. the G603 has a bit different shell design to accomodate big boy batteries, and has a 30 day battery life I think. G703 can do wireless charging if you buy a fancy mousepad with wireless charger in it.
the performance of these wireless ones are as good as the wired ones.
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Thanks for the advice
That reminds me, I’d prefer a wired mouse so I’ll edit that into the opening post. Also, I was hoping for something at least as wide as the G5, if not, wider, but I will definitely look into the ones you suggested!
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alright cool
well the grip width might actually be similar, I haven’t compared them — maybe someone else can chime in on that.
I don’t have my G5 any more currently.
it definitely fills the palm really well, since the top part is quite wide and rounded. super comfortable at the very least.
good thing it comes in wired and is also the best performer in wired mode!
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Sounds very cool! I’m doing a new build in a couple weeks so I’ll see what suggestions come in between now and then, then I’ll look into them all one night and make a pick. Input lag is my worst enemy, so if it’s good for that, it’s definitely gonna rate high preference for me
Thanks again.
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Kone Pure/Kone Pure EMP is pretty similar in shape, imho. They have the same ergo thumb indent on the left and medium curvature on the right.
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Sadly no direct replacement for the G5. Mine broke after 11 years of daily use 2 years ago. Since i have tried other Logitech mice but none is the same or even close.
I would suggest you either try to find one online from e-bay (if logically priced) or then accept the death of the mouse and move on to something different completely.
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If you really like the shape the Roccat Kone/Pure is probably the best alternative
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right, the Roccat Kone EMP might be one to check out. ino here on the forums has made a review on it I think. where he rated it very highly.
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Thanks guys. I’ll look into these suggestions
Quote:
Originally Posted by FadeVanguard
Sadly no direct replacement for the G5. Mine broke after 11 years of daily use 2 years ago. Since i have tried other Logitech mice but none is the same or even close.
I would suggest you either try to find one online from e-bay (if logically priced) or then accept the death of the mouse and move on to something different completely.Click to expand.
..
Man… you had yours longer than mine. It was like the 8800GTX of Mice. Was sad to see the legend go haha… I’m prepared to move on though
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Logitech-G400-Optical-Gaming-Mouse-High-Precision-3600-DPI-Optical-Engine-G-400/292083314416?hash=item440185aef0:g:0cQAAOSwRrlZ-8CT
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Even better: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Logitech-G5-M-UAh213A-Laser-Gaming-Mouse-s-Blue-Black-lot-of-2-No-Weight/172605538540?hash=item28301780ec:g:uM0AAOSwzgBY3-SN
Two for the price of one modern gaming mouse. I’d get it before anyone else does.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ET900
Thanks for the advice
That reminds me, I’d prefer a wired mouse so I’ll edit that into the opening post. Also, I was hoping for something at least as wide as the G5, if not, wider, but I will definitely look into the ones you suggested!
Click to expand.
..
If you’re looking for comfort and width, I think the EC1-B mouse will give you that. My grip that I use for the EC1-A is very close to how I would hold my G5. The G403’s hump makes it feel very different than the G5.
I took out my G5 just to see how I hold it. It is still comfortable to hold. The little lip on the right side and the thumb groove make it so much easier to lift the mouse. Its height and length is just perfect.
Oh Logitech, why not release this mouse again with a 3366????
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Thanks for the suggestions, people
I thought about getting a secondhand G5, but I want to try something new. Besides, I’m using higher resolution screens these days so could probably benefit from more than 2000dpi accuracy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitavreb
If you’re looking for comfort and width, I think the EC1-B mouse will give you that. My grip that I use for the EC1-A is very close to how I would hold my G5.
The G403’s hump makes it feel very different than the G5.
I took out my G5 just to see how I hold it. It is still comfortable to hold. The little lip on the right side and the thumb groove make it so much easier to lift the mouse. Its height and length is just perfect.
Oh Logitech, why not release this mouse again with a 3366????
Click to expand…
Yeh it’s a classic really. Same as the optical mouse from the same era — MX518 was it? I wouldn’t really change anything about the G5 other than making it a little wider. We must move on though eh
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Finalmouse ergo classic has the closest shape to a G5 that you can find, havent tried the mouse itself though, had my G5 for around 8 years before it broke, settled for a G403 and love it, just make sure you dont get any of the older batches (16xx) since the mousewheel rattles on them.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nachoooo
Finalmouse ergo classic has the closest shape to a G5 that you can find, havent tried the mouse itself though, had my G5 for around 8 years before it broke, settled for a G403 and love it, just make sure you dont get any of the older batches (16xx) since the mousewheel rattles on them.
Click to expand…
Just DON’T ever compare anything FinalMouse produces as something adequate when putting it up to the G5 series.
FinalMouse perpetually makes GARBAGE mice that will never last as long as a Logitech G5. Just do not even try to make bogus claims about that because you are then entering into «Fake News» territory.
Bought and used their Scream One series, utter rubbish served up at the highest price. It should of actually been retailing as a $1.99AUD product, since it fails in everything from weak switches and worse scroll wheel, that makes any model sold by Zowie seem pristine and perfect.
The Scream One’s casing creaked like a rusty hinge when used plus their sensor was poorly implemented. That is why those clowns at FinalMouse keep on releasing so-called «New Models» only to make everyone who bought their previous models, buy something better in quality when in fact it’s more of the same poorly made junk. I climbed aboard their fake train of mouse production and got off at the next stop, just isn’t worth traveling any further with their lies and pathetically made products.
All they seem to be doing is carrying on with Razer’s old mantra, keep releasing new models that do nothing better than the previous, just to fool ignorant into handing over a ‘ton’ of money.
The Logitech G403 is a far better product, cheaply priced but indeed far superior in quality and performance than anything made by ‘FinalMouse’ which in itself is a joke because once you buy their product, it will indeed be your final purchase from that deceitful company, run by greedy shills.
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Not a fan of them then? ?
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g400s is still on amazon new in box thats how i got mine https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G400s-910-003589-Optical-Gaming/dp/B00BCEK2LA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1512934086&sr=8-3&keywords=g400s
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Thanks guys. I actually got the Roccat Kone EMP in the end. It feels pretty similar to the G5 but with a more cheapy, plastic feel to it.
I think it should’ve been about half the price. Still, I’ll keep it as it’s doing the job good enough.
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Gamepad joystick Logitech (8 weights) Logitech G5
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Mathew Tech MK84 Mechanical Keyboard
I decided to get rid of the wires and try the new “mechanics” in a wireless version. What came out of it you will find out in the review. Inner world, software review and some of my conclusions
Prehistory
The story began with the fact that I bought myself a laptop 14 «HP Zbook 14u G5. Surprisingly, it has a very comfortable keyboard, both tactile and ergonomically. Well and I somehow climbed through the expanses of Ali and decided to see what our Asian colleagues came up with new. Well, I came across this keyboard. Why not 104 or 87 but 84 keys? It’s simple: a minimum of differences from the laptop layout of the keys, all the buttons that I I use it, the brain does not need to switch to a different arrangement of buttons.
And if necessary, you can buy a numpad and place it on the left. Before that, I used an 87-key keyboard and did not suffer from the lack of a numpad in any way. The only «but» — I lacked a button » enter», which I mapped to the side mouse button.
Keyboard
So, Mathew Tech MK84 keyboard
We are promised:
- 3000mAh battery with a lifespan of up to 200 hours with the backlight off
- RGB backlight
- 84 keys and PBT keycaps with Russian print
- Hotswap switches 3/5 foot
- Connection:
- wired
- via 2.4G receiver
- Bluetooh — 3 devices
Body dimensions:
- 312×122 mm
- wall thickness 3mm
Button top height:
- front 30 mm
- rear 42, with legs 51 or 57 mm
- keycap height 9.4 mm
Instructions here without branding.
Inside the actual keyboard, cable, instructions, keycap and switch puller, a small brush for lubricating the switches.
The keyboard itself
And that’s why I wanted this keyboard form factor
An attentive reader must have noticed that the location of the right column of buttons on the box is different. This is true. Initially it was del, home, end, pgup, pgdn. I changed it to HP compatible del, home, pgup, pgdn, end. Played around with the software and the next day when taking pictures, I safely forgot to return everything back.
In general, for the first time when I saw the keyboard, it fascinated me with its appearance. Keycaps in this form really look very cool. Of course, I could not stand it and turned on the keyboard immediately. Beauty!
The keyboard has a slight slope, which, in my opinion, is enough for minimal comfort and SA-type keycaps that are designed for a flat keyboard. Elastic bands on the legs do not slip on the table. The keyboard stands like a glove.
Bottom mode switch, two pairs of combined legs and a receiver on a magnet.
Feet in two lowered positions and mode switch: receiver, wire, bluetooth
I ordered a keyboard with Gateron Milky Yellow switches.
Here they are on the keyboard. At the same time, stabilizers are visible in the frame. Surprisingly they are of very good quality. Nothing rattled or rattled out of the box. Everything is lubricated, there is no excess lubrication, but it is enough.
Inside you can see the silicone «noise isolation»
The switches themselves. There is lubrication, but not much
Keycaps, made of PBT plastic, very pleasant to the touch. Unfortunately, they are opaque for backlighting. The print is made by sublimation. Wall thickness 1.2mm. Inside, everything is beautifully done
Disassembly
Well, let’s start disassembling. We remove the keycaps and unscrew the screws (another one was hidden under the caps, but I lost that photo somewhere)
Everything is beautiful inside, but the soundproofing of the bottom was not delivered.
Board closer
«Sandwich»: steel «plate», silicone gasket, board.
Battery and a magnet attached nearby to hold the USB receiver with tape
Battery 3000 mAh
Main keyboard controller BYK916
Wireless controller BK3632
USB connector and Gateron socket
transistors
Operation and autonomy
It is possible to switch the mode Mac PC.
Hotkeys for Mac can be found in the manual. for windows hotkeys are stoned to put it mildly. It seems that they were chosen randomly:
FN + F1 Screen brightness decrease
FN + F2 Screen brightness increase
FN + F3 Multitasking windows
FN+F4 Program list
FN + F5 Backlight brightness decrease
FN + F6 Backlight brightness increase
FN + F7 Previous
FN+F8 Pause/Play
FN+F9 Next song
FN+F10 Mute
FN + F11 Volume down
FN + F12 Volume up
Well, that is, fn + f3 is the same as win-tab, fn + f4 makes win + e. For what? It’s not clear. Here’s a better calculator.
As I already wrote, there are different connection modes. I will describe briefly, in more detail in the instructions. We select the switch on the bottom of the bluetooth. then, using FN + Q / W / E, select the desired channel and holding the combination for about 3s enter the search mode, the LED on the button blinks, in the necessary device we find the keyboard, connect, use.
Nothing difficult. it’s convenient enough, I would like to switch the mouse like that … I don’t see any delays. Everything works clearly.
I’ve been using the keyboard for over a month now and I’m quite happy with it. First of all, I really like it visually. The build quality is pleasing. There were no glitches or accidental clicks.
Autonomy.
The degree of discharge of the battery can only be viewed via bluetooth. The manufacturer very strangely wrote that the battery will last from a week to 200 hours. After a week of working with the keyboard without the backlight on for about 8 or more hours a day, I managed to see a charge of 90%, and before that it was always 100. After another week, the charge remained 90%. It is obvious that the backlight will eat more, I don’t see much point in capturing some characteristics, because The use case will be different for everyone. Obviously, without backlighting, the keyboard will last for a month, or even more. Which in itself is a good result.
Switches
Product description says
Green/Black/Red/Brown/KTT Red Wine/Gateron Milky Yellow but you can choose Black/Blue/brown/Red in the product. Switches, with the exception of KKT, are all Gateron firms. Vprinipe, before buying, you can write to the seller and clarify by switches. I asked for Gateron Milky Yellow because I read a lot that they are just super-super. Well, yes, in general, the sound and sensations are cool, there is no characteristic rattle of plastic on plastic. But even so, I need tactile ones, so I’ll probably take the new Outemu series later.
If anyone forgot, then the blue ones are the very clicky ones, the green ones are their more rigid modification, the black ones are heavy linear, the red ones are light linear, the brown ones are tactile (but the gateron has very weak tactility), Red Wine are smeared reds with a very soft stroke, Milky Yellow is even better reds and with a heavier move. They have a nylon body, which gives excellent sound and smooth running without grinding, but with a characteristic “thock”.
Doesn’t stress yourself or those around you. All switches are lubricated. If you want tactile ones, I still recommend taking the gray outemeu of the new series separately. They are really good.
Soft
Unfortunately, this is both a plus and a minus at the same time. The Chinese clearly understood what the software should be, but forgot to figure out why. Therefore, there are many backlight modes and, as for me, weak functionality for reassigning buttons. I was hoping that you could at least assign multimedia keys to the FN layer of the keyboard, but no. This is only for older models. I reviewed a lot of software from competitors and came to the conclusion that there are at least two popular solutions. The first is the reviewed software. Weight about 10 MB in installed form. Everything is beautifully stuffed into folders, you can, if anything, edit the images so that the software begins to resemble something solid.
The second software is based on some wild framework.
With a web server, some incomprehensible resources, it takes “half an hour” to load, a terrible brake, it weighs almost half a gigabyte! In general, I’m glad that my keyboard is with the first type of software.
Looking ahead. Software features:
- reassignment of the base layer of the keyboard
- a bunch of backlight modes
- interactive backlight in the form of a «spectrum analyzer» of the reproduced audio
- assignment of macros
The main window of the software.
The general principle of the software is this. First you need a cable. Yes, the cable is in the wireless keyboard. That is, the software only works in wired mode. I think this is due to the fact that they found a craftsman who screwed the wireless module, and screwing everything else to the software is already much more difficult. That’s what they decided on.
Backlight
In general, we have 3 default profiles. And apparently, when you select a profile, all settings are poured into the keyboard.
The profile saves the settings for reassigning buttons and lighting. And no, you can’t switch profiles from the keyboard.
But you can add, remove and edit. To do this, press the pencil and then select the desired action.
Below is the backlight mode selection window. In this case, the mode is a la wave and you can choose either a single color (square color) or “random” (for some reason, a rainbow for the Chinese is random) color. To the right is the choice of backlight levels, speed and backlight off time (5-10-20-30 and infinity minutes). To the right is a circle and sliders for selecting the highlight color. In principle, the keyboard makes a good atmospheric night light 🙂
Modes:
Button reassignment
Press Key Settings — this is an impromptu tab. You can select a default button, a combination of buttons, a multimedia button and macro
Now you can press any button on the keyboard and it will fit into the dropbox. It is impossible to open it and why it was done so is a mystery.
Well, respectively, you can choose modifiers shift, ctrl, win, alt.
And if you have mapped any garbage, and the desired button is mapped, then you can click on the button and open the virtual keyboard. Well, already there dial the necessary hotkey.
You can also map multimedia buttons
At the end, press save and save to the keyboard. well and Apply to apply. In general, there is also a button with a round arrow that resets all buttons to their default state. Restore resets the entire keyboard to its original state.
Macros
Select the Macro tab.
Then you can either add the necessary actions through the insert event, or press record and click on the desired macro. You must first, of course, click add macro (new) and give it a name. Here I clicked on everything. To edit an action, you need to select it and click Modify. Not very comfortable.
Events can be like this
To assign a macro, go to the button reassignment menu, click on the desired button and select the macro in the list
That’s all.
In principle, if you wish, you can use it quite effectively in your work. But again, do not forget that we must use the wire and lose some kind of button. I repeat that we cannot reassign FN +
Spectrum Analyzer
Well, what a beautiful interior and all that. Absolutely useless thing for me, but I think tiktokers will be delighted 🙂 You can adjust the gain and smoothness, as well as select one of the modes.
Possible modes:
Modifications
If you are a “lucky” owner of an Ikea table, then these two devices do not go well together. An empty table amplifies the sound along with the keyboard, and all this has an overtone of an empty box. A felt mat helps a little, but not much. I ordered a piece of Shumka 5mm on Ali, but 3mm is even better. this one turned out to be a bit thick and I had to tighten it, wait a couple of days for shrinkage and then tighten the screws again.
In general, it was possible to take the remnants of a car Shumka — it would definitely dent well, but it was not at hand. This is how it turned out in the end. The rest of the Shumka can be glued into the gap to make it quieter.
I also bought spacers between the switch and the board and on the top plate. Glued — no effect. Well, by ear. Perhaps it became quieter, but not much. So I can only recommend Shumkov. It is budgetary and the sound corrects to the state of «pleasant to the ear.»
A bit of video
I want to say right away that in reality the gap is not as loud as in the video. Why it is so audible on the video remains a mystery to me (maybe because I hit it hard? :)). In some places, you can hear the clang of the spacebar stub — unfortunately, after the side and disassembly, I managed to skew it a little during installation. And on the video, again, it is heard well, but not live. Out of the box, everything was perfect, however, as it is now.
Stock keyboard:
youtu.