Taking apart new xbox 360 slim: How to Clean an Xbox 360 Slim (with Pictures)

How to open a Xbox 360 Slim — Xbox Gaming

How to open the Xbox 360 Slim

To get into the Xbox 360 you’ll need pretty much the same tools you needed to get into the old one. A flat head screwdriver helps, preferably one with a long, thin stem (a tiny flathead is also useful in getting the heatsink clamp off if you want to go that far). You’ll need a torx driver with T8 bit. A phillips head screwdriver if you want to remove the fan on the heatsink and a selection of thin/flat tools to help you pry bits of the case apart.

The bad news is that the new Xbox 360 is not really any simpler to disassemble than the old one. I’ve included photos of the process here but for larger versions and even more than what I’ve included inline, check out the gallery below. As always, proceed at your own risk — we’re not responsible for any damange to your console that happens as a result of following these instructions. Also know that proceeding with this will surely void your warranty from Microsoft.

To start you’ll want to first remove the hard drive. Next we have two plastic grates on the left and right of the system that pop right off. They are attached using clips along their edges so work one part out with your flat head driver and just pull the rest off.

The side without the hard drive is a bit more difficult. I crammed a plastic tool between the chrome casing and the plastic grate to pull it off and then wedged my fingers in there to get the entire piece off.

This next part is the first of two hard parts, and I’m not sure there’s a way around this. Removing the two plastic grates will reveal two more black plastic covers. You can wedge your flathead between the plastic cover and the rest of the system and pry it off.

The cover is attached to the system by several plastic stands that fit through little holes behind them. The stands are wider at their outer most edge than they are at the base, too wide to just fit through the hole. In fact, removing these plastic covers will break part of the stands off. It looks like Microsoft did this to make opening the new 360 something that could only be properly reversed at Microsoft itself. Thankfully doing so doesn’t fundamentally ruin the system.

Stick your screwdriver in one of the cutouts and pry away. You’ll see a lot of flexing and then hear a pop, once you hear one move to the next portion of the plastic cover. Do this around the edge until the entire cover is removed. Repeat for the other side of the 360.

Now you’ve got line of sight into the system itself. Great.

At this point you can also remove the 802.11n card which is held in place by a single screw. Remove the T8 screw and the card slides right out. It is just plugged into an internal USB port.

Now we have to remove the two chrome surrounds on either side of the system. These are attached via clips that can be tempted loose using that trusty flat head screwdriver. Wedge it between the clip and the rest of the chassis and push away from the chassis:

Some clips will give way easily, others will take some coercion. Some of the clips are only accessible via a very tiny, very long flat head. Start with the clips you know you can get off and then try to pry the tough ones later.

You’ve got 6 on one side and 5 on the other chrome lip, the shots below should help you.

With the two chrome surrounds removed we’re now at the second most difficult part of dissecting the new Xbox 360. Remember these little things:

Yep, they’re back, and even more of a pain.

On the old 360 you at least had a removable face plate and some insight into what was going on at the rear of the system. This time around you can only look in at the sides which makes this next part quite frustrating.

Thankfully I know exactly how many clips you have to break free: three on the back and eight on the front.

I started on the back, got the clips loose then moved to the front. You need to access clips at both the left and ride side of the Xbox 360. A flashlight can be very handy here. Remember you’ve got clips at both the top and the bottom of the Xbox to work free at the front. Unfortunately during the process I managed to snap a few of these clips, not to the point where the system couldn’t be put back together thankfully.

The only advice I can give you here is to be patient, persistent and have a good flathead screwdriver at your side. Once you’ve pried these clips free the front will separate from the rest of the system. If you’re trying to do it without breaking any clips, good luck, if you don’t mind then be prepared to put some force into the process.

Be careful when removing the front of the system. There’s a ribbon cable that connects the 360‘s power button to the rest of the system, you have to remove it before you can proceed. In my original teardown the ribbon cable just ripped right out of its connector without any problems so if this happens to you, you should be ok.

The ribbon connector attaches here

With the front removed, separate the clips on the back and the top cover of the 360’s should lift right off exposing what we have below:

From this point on you’ll need your T8 bit. Start by removing the two screws that hold the front panel PCB in place. With the screws removed the PCB pulls straight out:

Now look at the side of the Xbox with the white sticker on it, there are 12 x T8 screws that you need to remove here to take the whole thing apart. If you just want to get the cover off I believe you only need to remove the 5 black ones.

The 12th screw is actually hidden under the white Xbox 360 sticker. It looks like Microsoft has done a lot to figure out whether or not you’ve opened this thing. Modders don’t make Microsoft happy. RRoD didn’t make me happy. Modders ftw.

The DVD Drive & Motherboard
I pulled all 12 screws out but left the four heatsink screws in place since I wanted access to the motherboard. With all four removed I could pull off the bottom cover leaving me with this:

The DVD drive lifts right out and you can disconnect the power and SATA cables from the unit easily just like on the older models.

This is a newer version of the Lite-On drive found in the newer Jasper Xbox 360s. They use the DG-16D2S while the Valhalla uses the new DG16-D4S.

Microsoft also outfitted the drive with a strip of rubber to help dampen vibration:

You can also remove the CGPU heatsink fan shroud at this point, it is a snug fit but it should lift straight off:

The piece of aluminum shielding in the lower left of the picture above lifts straight out, you can remove that if you want to pull out the motherboard.

The black piece of plastic in the upper right hand corner of the picture above is the HDD carrier. It’s actually mounted on a flexible mount to allow for some vibration dampening and shock resistance. There’s a single large T8 screw holding it in place, remove this screw.

The drive tray isn’t completely free yet, there’s one more T8 screw at the back of the Xbox 360 that has to be removed. It was hidden by the casing but with that off you can now access it. Remove that screw and the drive tray is free:

The Motherboard
Two phillips screws hold the fan in place. You don’t need to remove them to remove the heatsink but I did anyway:

The single large heatsink is a lot heftier than what we’d seen in previous 360s, it doesn’t feel quite as cheap or as insufficient. This time around it has to do double duty cooling both the CPU and the GPU.

At this point I can easily remove the motherboard and flip it over, revealing our old friend: the x-clamp.

Place your flathead screwdriver tip here, pointing away from the xclamp, and pry the clamp off at this point. Repeat for 1 — 2 more and the whole thing should come off easily.

Unlike previous Xbox 360s, the Valhalla x-clamp isn’t a pain to remove. In fact all I had to do was slide a small flathead screwdriver in each of the four slots in the clamp and push down to make the clamp pop out. I’ve marked the area on the photo above.

With the x-clamp removed the heatsink pulls off revealing Microsoft’s Xbox 360 CGPU covered with a heat spreader. The heat spreader is great for making sure no one cracks a core while working on these things.

The chip to the left of the CGPU is the 360’s South Bridge, responsible for the SATA and USB ports in the system. The chip is marked as an A0 stepping which is usually the first stepping to come back from the fab. This is probably a pretty tried and true design by now with no bugs to worry about at this point.

Xbox 360 South Bridge (top), 16MB SLC NAND (bottom)

The Hynix NAND on the motherboard is still 16MB in size. It is SLC NAND so it should last the lifetime of the Xbox as long as you don’t somehow mod it into a database server.

The third major ASIC on the motherboard is the HANA scaler/video encoder chip we’ve seen before on Jasper.

The motherboard now has two SATA ports directly on the board itself to support the new HDD tray.

Final Words
Microsoft, Nintendo and Sony are all trying to change the rules of the game for the next generation of consoles. Five years ago we were eagerly awaiting the arrival of the Xbox 360 and today we are still left without a replacement. Microsoft and Sony want to push the current cycle of consoles through 2012 in order to recover investment dollars. Thankfully despite the age of these consoles, the quality of titles only seems to be improving.

The Xbox 360 slim is often referred to as what the first 360 should have been. It is smaller, quieter and hopefully much more reliable than what Microsoft first shipped five years ago. If it is indeed using 40nm components from TSMC I wouldn’t expect a quick ramp. It may be that the slim remains at the $299 price point for a while until Microsoft can get enough silicon back to bring it to lower price points. Update: It looks like the CGPU is made at Chartered, now Global Foundries at 45nm. We may see a quicker ramp than I first assumed as a result.

Coupled with Kinect and some exciting titles due out later this year and next (not to mention the 360’s media streaming capabilities), there should be enough life in the 360 to make an investment in the new box today worthwhile.

That being said, I really do hope that we see just as many eager game developers take advantage of the tremendous increase in CPU and GPU horsepower we’ve been given over the past five years. When the 360’s CPU was first announced no desktop CPU could manage 6 threads, today we can have twice that paired with over 12 times the amount of cache on the 360’s CPU. Today’s GPUs are similarly impressive and are going to be even more affordable this year, and faster next.

Just as the high end grows more powerful, so will mobile gaming devices. We are not that far away from having the power of an Xbox 360 in a smartphone. An in-order triple core CPU should be doable in an SoC within 4 years, and the GPU within a similar amount of time. And there are companies working on both. Eventually the 360’s library may be the “arcade classic” titles you’ll be playing on your smartphone.

Sweet.

All credit to Anandtech for a fully comprehensive tutorial.

Complete optical assembly Xbox 360 S repair — Free guide

USD

Level :

Hard

Time : 65 min
Author : Alexandre

Huge thanks to Magali C., our benefactor for this guide

30055 people have done this repair successfully ! Why not you?

This guide will explain to you how to replace the complete optical assembly on your Xbox 360 Slim.
Problems: Disc doesn’t turn or playing DVDs is impossible

Some advice before you start

Recommended repair kit

    Required tools

    Guide format :
    Pdf
    Integrate

    See in HD

    Step 1

    Before replacing the complete optical assembly on your Xbox 360 Slim, you need to turn off the console for clear safety reasons. To do this, unplug all the cables (power supply, video, controllers…).

    Turn the Xbox 360 S so the bottom part of the console is facing you.

    To start, remove the hard drive cover using the latch that’s made to release the cover.

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    Step 2

    Then grasp the hard drive cover and remove it.

    The hard drive cover of your Xbox 360 S is now removed.

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    Step 3

    Now grasp the small tab for removing the hard drive, and pull on it to release the drive from its placement.

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    Step 4

    In the next few steps, we’re going to remove the bottom air vent (found at the right of the hard drive port, as seen in our photos). This vent is attached to the panels by 7 clips (3 on the top, 3 on the bottom, 1 on the right).

    To unclip the air vent, lever it up using an iSesamo metal spudger, as seen in the photos.

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    Step 5

    Once the air vent is unclipped, grasp it to remove it completely.

    The bottom air vent is now removed from your Xbox 360 S.

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    Step 6

    In the next few steps we’ll remove the bottom panel. .

    Reuse the iSesamo spudger to unclip the bottom panel on the right side (the top by the hard drive port).

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    Step 7

    Still using the iSesamo spudger, continue unclipping the panel around all of the edges.

    To make it easier, we recommend that you start at the bottom of the bottom panel (just under the hard drive port) and finish on the left side.

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    Step 8

    Still using the iSesamo spudger, continue to unclip the top edge of the bottom panel.

    Once you’ve unclipped the top, you can then grasp the bottom panel and remove it completely.

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    Step 9

    Two plastic clips secure the bottom edge of the panel’s frame.

    We’ll explain how to unclip them in the following steps.

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    Step 10

    Using a nylon spudger, carefully lever up the clips seen in the photos in order to unclip them.

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    Step 11

    Then carefully pull on the bottom of the frame for the bottom panel.

    This is to move the frame aside so ensure they don’t re-attach.

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    Step 12

    3 plastic clips secure the top part of the bottom panel frame.

    Use the nylon spudger to unclip the 3 clips in the same way as the previous steps.

    Then grasp the plastic frame and remove it entirely.

    The bottom panel of your Xbox 360 S is now completely removed.

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    Step 13

    The air vent on the top panel of your Xbox 360 S is secured by multiple clips.

    To unclip the air vent, use the iSesamo spudger to carefully lever it up in different places. To make it easier, we recommend you start by unclipping the top edge of the vent.

    Once the top is unclipped, you can grasp the vent to finish separating it from the console, then remove it completely.

    Note: The vent should be removed easily, there’s no need to force it.

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    Step 14

    The top panel of the Xbox 360 S is secured to the console by numerous clips. Each of these clips are easy to spot, they’re placed under each rectangular slot.

    In order to unclip them, insert the point of the nylon spudger into each rectangular slot.

    For every clip you detach, pull on the second frame (second photo) to remove it from the console.

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    Step 15

    Repeat these steps with all the clips on the edge of the top panel.

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    Step 16

    Once they’re all unclipped, you can carefully remove the top panel of the Xbox 360 S.

    It’s likely that some clips will re-attach themselves to the console when you’re moving around the edge. In this case don’t force the panel, simply repeat the steps to unclip the panel and completely detach it from your Xbox 360 S.

    The top panel is now removed from the console.

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    Step 17

    Now turn the console so the top edge is opposite you with the faceplate to the left.

    2 clips secure the right and left panel together on your Xbox 360 S. These are next to the WiFi board.

    In order to unclip these 2 clips, lever the latch up with a nylon spudger, as seen in the photos.

    Now separate the 2 panels by pushing them apart gently, as seen in photos 3 and 4 of this step.

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    Step 18

    Now flip your Xbox 360 S so the bottom edge is towards you, and the faceplate is to the left.

    2 clips, this time on the bottom edge of the panels, secure the right and left panels of your Xbox 360 S together. These are next to the hard drive port.

    Lever up these 2 clips with a nylon spudger as indicated in the photos.

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    Step 19

    Now use the tweezers to remove the warranty sticker from the console.

    The rest of this guide requires you to remove the warranty sticker on your Xbox 360 S. This means the warranty for your Xbox will probably be invalidated by Microsoft after this step.

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    Step 20

    Now insert the iSesamo spudger carefully between the left and right panel of your Xbox 360 S.

    Lever up the spudger in order to carefully separate the 2 panels on your Xbox 360 Slim.

    Note: If this is too hard, don’t force the panels apart. Double check that the clips haven’t re-attached.

    If the clips have re-attached automatically, don’t hesitate to insert a nylon spudger between the 2 panels to keep them separated.

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    Step 21

    You can now carefully separate the left panel from the console.

    The left panel of your Xbox 360 Slim is now removed.

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    Step 22

    Now turn your Xbox 360 S so the bottom edge is facing you, with the faceplate is at the right this time.

    Now use the nylon spudger to unclip the clip securing the faceplate in place.

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    Step 23

    Now carefully pull the faceplate apart from the console, and then turn it over.

    Note: Don’t remove the faceplate fully! It’s still attached to the rest of the console by a cable!

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    Step 24

    Still using the nylon spudger, remove the blue plastic tab.

    This tab secures the power button cable to the radio board.

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    Step 25

    Use the nylon spudger to unlock the FPC connector that secures the power button cable.

    The darker part of the connector should only be moved around 2mm.

    Once the FPC connector is open, you can carefully remove the power button connector cable.

    Then remove the faceplate completely.

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    Step 26

    The faceplate of your Xbox 360 Slim is now fully removed.

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    Step 27

    Using a Torx T8 screwdriver, unscrew the 2 screws that secure the radio board in place (circled in red in the photo).

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    Step 28

    Gently pull the radio board to remove it from its placement.

    You can now fully remove the board.

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    Step 29

    Using a Torx 10 screwdriver, unscrew the screw securing the WiFi board (circled in red in the photo).

    Then carefully pull the WiFi board out to disconnect it from your Xbox 360 Slim. You can now remove it fully.

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    Step 30

    Still using the Torx 10 screwdriver, unscrew the 5 screws circled in red.

    These screws secure the right panel to the console.

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    Step 31

    Turn the console to have the right panel facing you.

    Then, grasp this panel (also called the right case) and gently pull it up to remove it completely from your Xbox 360 S.

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    Step 32

    Very carefully lift up the DVD drive of the console. The aim of this step is to lift the drive only 1 or 2 cm in order to have easy access to its data and power supply cables.

    Now grasp the power supply cable for the DVD drive and pull it gently towards you to disconnect it.

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    Step 33

    Disconnect the DVD drive data cable (Serial ATA cable) by pulling it gently towards you.

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    Step 34

    Lift the DVD drive up and remove it completely.

    The DVD drive in your Xbox 360 Slim is now partially removed.

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    Step 35

    Now remove the anti-vibration rubber frame from the DVD drive by pulling it up gently.

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    Step 36

    Unscrew the 4 cross headed screws circled in red in the photo.

    These screws secure the bottom case of the DVD drive.

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    Step 37

    Now turn the DVD drive of your Xbox 360 S so the right edge is facing you.

    Insert the iSesamo spudger between the bottom and top case of your DVD drive. Then carefully lever them apart to unclip the right side of the bottom case.

    Then turn your DVD drive over to repeat this step on the left side.

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    Step 38

    Still using the iSesamo spudger, unclip the bottom case gently from the front edge.

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    Step 39

    Now remove the bottom case entirely from the DVD drive.

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    Step 40

    Use the nylon spudger to unlock the FPC connector securing the DVD drives motor cable.

    The darker coloured part should only move around 2mm.

    Once the FPC connector is open, you can carefully remove the motor cable from your DVD drive.

    See in HD

    Step 41

    Use the nylon spudger to unlock the FPC connector for the lens motor cable.

    This connector is different to the other FPC we’ve encountered. This one opens by delicately levering it upwards.

    Once the FPC connector is open, you can carefully remove the motor lens cable from the connector.

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    Step 42

    Using a cross headed screwdriver, unscrew the screw circled in red in the photo.

    This secures the motherboard for the DVD drive.

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    Step 43

    Use the nylon spudger to disconnect the FPC connector for the lens cable.

    Like the previous FPC connector, this one opens by levering it up carefully.

    Once the FPC connector is open, you can carefully remove the laser lens cable from its connector.

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    Step 44

    Unclip the 2 plastic clips that secure the DVD drive motherboard in place.

    This clips are circled in red in photos 1 and 2 of this step.

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    Step 45

    Now carefully lift the motherboard out of the DVD drive and then flip it over.

    Note: Don’t remove the motherboard yet! It’s still connected to the eject mechanism of the DVD drive by the coloured cables.

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    Step 46

    Using a Torx T6 screwdriver, unscrew the 4 screws circled in red in the photo.

    These secure the optical assembly to the drive.

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    Step 47

    Use a nylon spudger to carefully lever up the optical assembly in order to lift it slightly.

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    Step 48

    Now grasp it carefully and remove it.

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    Step 49

    The optical assembly of the Xbox 360 Slim has been removed.

    Replace it with a new one if necessary.

    To reassemble your Xbox 360 S follow this guide in reverse order.

    Recommended repair kit

      Required tools

      They’re talking about us

      SOSav in the press

      How to disassemble xbox 360 Slim Manual


        OUR EQUIPMENT

      You will need one T9 Torx screwdriver to disassemble the Xbox 360 Slim and one T8 Torx screwdriver to remove the motherboard. It is also very convenient to use an awl to remove the latches of the case and side panels.

      Most importantly, be careful, our disassembly and assembly time is 5 minutes, and what can you do!

      To open the xbox 360 slim, remove the side plastic latches.

      We take out the internal hard drive only if you install Freeboot, in other cases you can leave it, it does not interfere.

      Remove all plastic covers.

      We continue to carefully pry them with a flat screwdriver or an awl, everything is carefully removed without damage.

      We continue to disassemble the xbox 360 Slim. Now we remove the latches and unscrew the wi-fi module, only the xbox 360 Slim has it, the old version of the set-top box does not have it.

      You can unscrew it with a Torx T9 screwdriver

      After removing the latches, carefully remove the front panel from one side, you just need to pull it off slowly and disconnect the graphic cable.

      Now we lift the cover a little up, and it is removed, you will have to unscrew a few bolts, and your set-top box is disassembled.

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      Comments

      Xbox 360 Repair (Slim, One) in Kyiv

      Our electrical service provides services such as Xbox 360 repair, Xbox 360 slim repair, Xbox One repair, software upgrade and configuration.

      Please note that in addition to game consoles, we repair joysticks, gamepads, external power supplies from xbox game consoles.

      Xbox 360 Repair — Major Complaints about Console Performance:

      1. Console won’t turn on. There may be a problem with the board, or the video chip.
      2. Console returns error 0022. Problem with NAND chip;
      3. Console does not turn on, only «three red lights» indication. The reason is either with the CPU chip (processor) or with the GPU chip (video chip). Error E74;
      4. Does not read discs. Drive or laser problem.
      5. The console heats up and may switch off. Problem with the cooling system.
      6. Ports are down. The problem is with the ports themselves or the chip.
      7. Installing Freeboot.

      For the first three failures, repairs such as reballing or replacement of the chip or chips are most often performed.

      If the console stopped reading discs, provided that the discs are not scratched and before that the console detected them, the drive or laser is changed.

      In case of overheating, the cooling system is cleaned and the cooling thermal paste is replaced. Sometimes the cooler also changes.

      Repair of Xbox 360 in Kyiv and Ukraine

      Game consoles are a complex type of equipment, repair requires special equipment, software, consumables and, of course, experience. In the regions of Ukraine, the repair of small household appliances may not be successful, not to mention the repair of game consoles. Since 2012, the My Repair workshop has been repairing and modifying game consoles, the workshop is equipped with the latest repair station, and a replacement base of spare parts is available. Repair of Xbox game consoles is a profile direction. We boldly declare that even complex repairs are within our power — 90% of all consoles that come to us are issued by workers and with a guarantee. 10% falls on set-top boxes that were previously repaired by unskilled specialists, there is also a percentage of owners who refuse to buy a new set-top box.

      In Kyiv, repair of Xbox 360, Slim and One is carried out at st. Starovokzalnaya 24. A resident of any city in Ukraine can get a quality service for his console if he sends it by Nova Poshta. Please note that Xbox One consoles need to be sent with a power supply and joystick, Xbox 360 and Slim do not need to be bundled additionally.