Problems with brand new watercooling loop
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I need some advice. I just finished my watercooling build. This is not my first build but i now stumbled upon problems i never had before and i don’t know what to do now.
After one week of use the pump started making a horrible noise.
Also i noticed that the CPU block has some strange spots.
I really hope you guys can give me some advice.
Thanks in advance.
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Looking at that 1 pic I believe that is your nickel plating falling apart before your eyes and 50/50 on the pump noise being a result of the nickel plating coming apart. This is why Watercool Heatkiller», Aquacomputer and Optimus are the gold standards. EK has a lot of problems with the Nickel flaking because the use what many consider a substandard plating process (cue fanboy to tell you I am wrong and they have had Nickel EK blocks for years without issue). But this is the 3rd+ thread in the last 30 days I have commented in about this. EK will most likely try to blame it on something like you used distilled without an anti corrosive or didn’t use their fittings and fluid ect. Before the fan boys chime in when is the last time you heard about the 3 other brands having a plating issue? Answer is EXTREMELY rare to you haven’t. And if they did have an issue they made it right.. Now Google «EK Nickel Flaking» and see what you get. If you go EK it’s best to stick to bare copper.
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Looks like nickel plating is coming off………
I would look at your graphics card block and see if you see signs of the nickel plating coming off of it.
EK seems to have had an issue with nickel plating again on their newest RTX 3xxx and AMD 6xxx blocks.
Also, running straight distilled water can cause stripping of the nickel plating.
You need to have anti-corrosion inhibitors in the cooling fluid, distilled water can cause a reaction with copper, brass and nickel when it is blasted under pressure against nickel in the water channels of the blocks.
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its da ek nickel quality.
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Well, thats bad news, all in all this system is up and running for about 2 weeks… So what to do now? What are my best options?
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1st, you need to find the block that the nickel is stripping or flaking off of.
2nd, disassemble the whole water cooling loop and flush all components thoroughly.
3rd, reassemble with replacement block that failed.
4th, don’t use straight distilled water. Add a biocide and anti-corrosion inhibitor to the water.
5th, Contact EK and hope they will honor the warranty on the block that failed.
Distilled water should be Ph neutral when first produced but will become slightly acidic in Ph over time as it absorbs carbon dioxide from the air.
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Inspect the pump rotor, cavity and bearing for damage. Those are some big flakes of nickel that passed through the pump and your recording of the noise the pump is making does not sound good at all.
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You should look at Optimus I had the same exact block EK velocity am4 then I switched to Optimus zero nickel plating issues and about 6 to 9 degrees cooler ….
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Mmmmmm….that wonderful EK quality…….how do people keep buying this stuff with Optimus, Heatkiller, Aquacomputer, TechN and a host of other quality vendors out there?
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The CPU block looks fine, am i right?
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Draganon said:
The CPU block looks fine, am i right?
Click to expand…
Yes, it does.
Did you clean your ZMT before use? I have gotten a ton of debris of varying colors out of ZMT that wasn’t thoroughly cleaned.
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ciarlatano said:
Mmmmmm….that wonderful EK quality…….how do people keep buying this stuff with Optimus, Heatkiller, Aquacomputer, TechN and a host of other quality vendors out there?
Click to expand…
You are probably right but i didn’t know better then ek being a quality brand. Also, there are issues with stock over here so there wasn’t a whole lot to choose from.
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ciarlatano said:
Yes, it does.
Did you clean your ZMT before use? I have gotten a ton of debris of varying colors out of ZMT that wasn’t thoroughly cleaned.
Click to expand…
No i didn’t, it almost looks like residue from tubing. I will open GPU block.
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I’ll go with @ciarlatano here, EK ZMT Tubing is nasty on the inside out of the box.
I had to clean mine really good before use.
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always flush each part with water before use … Block looks fine but Optimus and Techn are superior …
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Ok and just to be sure, i can not use distilled water when i fill the loop up am i correct? What is best to use to prevent future issues.
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Draganon said:
Ok and just to be sure, i can not use distilled water when i fill the loop up am i correct? What is best to use to prevent future issues.
Click to expand…
Mayhems XT1 or X1. If you don’t have availability in your area, Aquacomputer, XSPC EC6 or Koolance 720 fluids are typically solid.
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Distilled water is the base component of all coolants. You’ll need a biocide for algae growth prevention. Some still use a silver strip for that. I typically run distilled water and a small bottle of Hydrx. Lots of choices. Have used Mayhems products with good results.
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You dont need distilled water and a biocide or any of that stuff lol. Im running a velocity with tap water and a kill coil lol.
Fr though actual water wont do anything to it. Thats fanboys trying to cover eks ass
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@Draganon …after only a few weeks of use w/ distilled water, there clearly is s.th. else going on…I do use EK products and so far they have been mostly fine, though not as good as for example my Watercool Heatkiller. Even some Bykski OEM blocks (nickel-plated) GPU blocks have been doing fine for well over two years now. EK has had problems in the past with Nickel plating, and perhaps this is still going on. That said, a post in the RTX 3090 thread recently reported flaking developing on one spot in a nickel-plated Bykski GPU block. Since several market and supply-chain disruptions over the last year+ (Covid-19, other) there just seem to be more problems with peripherals, IMO.
I had GPU and CPU blocks plug up when I used way too much ‘cleaner’ products for a four-year old loop w/ quad GPUs etc.
..it did say ‘3 drops’, but I went a bit overboard (the whole bottle — hey, it was a big multi-block loop ) …the result was not only crud blocking micro-fins, but a dissolving Q-ring.
My method — and others may have a different one that works — is to flush EVERYTHING (new or used) thoroughly first with tap water in a bath tub…for example, I never had a brand new rad that didn’t have some form of ‘crud’ in it. After multiple rounds of tap water, I then flush everything again several times with distilled water, be that fittings, tubes, rads, blocks, pumps etc.Once it is all cleaned up, I then use TT Coolant 1000 and a bit of distilled water as the final mix in the loop…the TT 1000 has all the additives you need, and it is multi-metal approved.There are other good (if not better) liquids out there such as Mayhems, but I have used this TT Coolant 1000 / distilled water mix for years in various builds, ranging from multi-GPU custom monsters to a simple 8-year old AIO I fixed and refilled last summer (more on that > here) w/o any complaints, deposits etc and also great cooling performance.
I hope you can get it all RMAed/ rebuilt ok. Also, do keep an eye on your whole loop re. its composition, multi-metal etc.
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ek water block corrosion? | Overclock.net
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So i installed the EK-FC1080 GTX Ti FTW3 — Acetal+Nickel about 3 weeks ago and now this is happening. I’m not sure if it is corrosion or what is actually going on.
Above is a video of what it looks like. My temperatures haven’t changed at all.
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That seems pretty bad for 3 weeks. You get a few patchy bits but that’s pretty bad…
What coolant are you using. Do you have aluminum in your loop?
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Holy crap I just came here and posted another thread 5 minutes ago. I have the same block and something is not right….it has been installed for 2 weeks.
First image bottom right:
closer look:
Any clue? Should I drain and return?
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WOW! I just happened to look at mine, I run straight decriminalized water. No additives or anything and my block is still pristine. I would say that there is definitely a problem there. looks like straight rust to me. i think aluminum leaves a white looking crap behind due to galvanic corrosion(mixing metals). Sorry for your luck bro. I hope you get it corrected. I would take a look at the rest of the loop also.
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What components are you guys running in your loops and what coolants?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by latexyankee
Holy crap I just came here and posted another thread 5 minutes ago. I have the same block and something is not right….it has been installed for 2 weeks.
First image bottom right:
closer look:
Any clue? Should I drain and return?
Click to expand…
Nah that looks fine, just a little flaking. it will happen. if you don’t notice anything beyond the gasket you should be fine. I have a few pits in my blocks, some are a little deepish, but not worries.
When in doubt, I like to connect the block up to a tap and put a bit of pressure through it. If water driven by a tap opened up fully doesn’t seep through any of the gaskets you can be fairly sure they tiny amount of pressure applied by these pumps we run wont be a worry.
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OP,
We need to know what fluid you are using. Is this a brand new loop with all new parts? Red powdery residue can come from radiators that weren’t prepped correctly.
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Ive had this loop for years now ive been using distilled water and pt nuke. The color of the water has not changed in my loop i have drained it once before and the water that came out was crystal clear and the block didn’t have any flaking or brown. When i shine a light really close up to it, you can see the the block is pretty much brand new. I am really confused as to why it looks like that.
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3x xspc radiators xpsc raystorm v3 cpu block. Bitspower and ek fittings. Ill make a list of all the parts so it is easier for you guys.
I have basically been running this setup for over 2 years now and i flush once every 3 months. I have never notice any brown stuff like this before in the entire 2 years of having this watercooling setup.
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EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM Pump
ek fittings: https://www.pccasegear.com/products/30770
bitspower fittings: https://www.pccasegear.com/products/13480
reservoir. http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-balancer-250-matte-black.html
All my radiators are xspc : https://www.pccasegear.com/products/14662
CPU waterblock is xspc raystorm v3 : http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-cpu/raystorm-cpu-waterblock-intel
Could it be the ek fittings, they are aluminum? Why would ek make waterblocks that aren’t compatible with their fittings tho :/
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slayyar
EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM Pump
ek fittings: https://www.pccasegear.com/products/30770
bitspower fittings: https://www.pccasegear.com/products/13480
reservoir. http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-balancer-250-matte-black.html
All my radiators are xspc : https://www.
pccasegear.com/products/14662
CPU waterblock is xspc raystorm v3 : http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-cpu/raystorm-cpu-waterblock-intel
Could it be the ek fittings, they are aluminum? Why would ek make waterblocks that aren’t compatible with their fittings tho :/
Click to expand…
Pretty sure the EK fittings are nickel plated brass. I mixed a few EK with all my XSPC fittings and triple checked the materials. That said Im not as experienced and my issue is nowhere as severe as yours.
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I took some more photos with a bright light shining and the block looks totally differen’t :/
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinFX
Nah that looks fine, just a little flaking. it will happen. if you don’t notice anything beyond the gasket you should be fine. I have a few pits in my blocks, some are a little deepish, but not worries.
When in doubt, I like to connect the block up to a tap and put a bit of pressure through it.If water driven by a tap opened up fully doesn’t seep through any of the gaskets you can be fairly sure they tiny amount of pressure applied by these pumps we run wont be a worry.
Click to expand…
Thanks for the response. whats with the black spot though? If I apply pressure it will get smaller then increase a tiny bit. I can also see it just very slightly moving like its flowing with the coolant not just a dark mark on the plexi.
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Man this thread is confusing, trying to follow which loop and pics is whos.
OP: I can’t see any actual corrosion but the video seems to show some staining that can present when using copper sulphate as a bug killer. It should be easy to clean off.
This example is more progressed than your pics seem to show but it still apllies
http://www.overclock.net/t/1635049/cleaning-nickel-cpu-water-block-ek-supremacy-evo-nickel#post_26245094
Laytexyankee : You seem to have a slight case of oring leaching.
EK has had some materials quality issues that results in Orings that leach out a fluid. It should be very easy to clean off and they will send you new ones if you like.
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Hey ashcroft i read the thread you posted and I think i should clean the block and then use some proper fluid? is there any you would recommend?
I have also drained the blocks like a week ago and the water that came out was not brown it was crystal clear weirdly.
I will open up the blocks tomorrow and clear photos.
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sorry OP didnt mean to hijack your thread
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashcroft
Man this thread is confusing, trying to follow which loop and pics is whos.
OP: I can’t see any actual corrosion but the video seems to show some staining that can present when using copper sulphate as a bug killer. It should be easy to clean off.
This example is more progressed than your pics seem to show but it still apllies
http://www.overclock.net/t/1635049/cleaning-nickel-cpu-water-block-ek-supremacy-evo-nickel#post_26245094Laytexyankee : You seem to have a slight case of oring leaching. EK has had some materials quality issues that results in Orings that leach out a fluid. It should be very easy to clean off and they will send you new ones if you like.
Click to expand…
The OP is definitely running copper sulphate — that’s all PT nuke is. The camera angle in the video makes it look a lot worse than it does when it’s under a bright light!
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Im going to flush today and just run distilled water and see if it happens.
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that is how it looked initially.
After a quick 2 minute clean with just tissue paper and a toothbrush.
It was like dusty brown stuff that just wiped off easily very minimal water needed.
What is this and what is it caused from?
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do you think this is caused by ptnuke? all clean now, I used about 5ml of water a rag and toothbrush.
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CBO for processor EKWB EK-Kit Classic D-RGB P240 (id 90268230)
Characteristics and description
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Manufacturer
EKWB
9 0025
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CBO for EKWB EK-Kit Classic D-RGB processor P240
EK-Classic Kit P240 D-RGB is a high performance D-RGB liquid cooling kit that comes with many accessories to help build the outline. This set provides effective cooling of the processor of Intel or AMD. Designed for space-constrained applications by using a medium 240mm radiator, the P240 D-RGB kit is the way to enter the world of custom liquid cooling.
This kit includes all the hardware you need to build your first custom CBO system. The kit includes all the necessary tools for assembly — a hose cutter, a filling bottle, a hex wrench and much more! You don’t have to worry about compatibility issues, fear that there won’t be enough fittings or hose, because there are enough in the kit. In addition, this kit can easily be extended to a graphics card with a GPU waterblock to liquid cool your entire system, but we recommend adding at least one more 240mm radiator to achieve cooler temperatures and a quieter system. All products in this kit use 3-pin 5V D-RGB connectors and are compatible with popular D-RGB sync technologies from all major motherboard manufacturers as well as the EK-Loop Connect controller.
Features
- Socket:AM4, s1150, s1151, s1155, s1156, s2011-3, s2066, s1200
- Compatible: Intel/AMD
- Number of fans: 2
- Fan dimensions: 120x120x25 mm
- Rotation speed: 500-2200 rpm
- Radiator dimensions: 273 x 120 x 45 mm
- Size: 240
900 20 Heat sink material: aluminum
Complete set
Complete set of goods C VO for EKWB EK-Kit Classic D-RGB P240 processor depends from a specific delivery and may be changed by the supplier without prior notice!
- — Universal CPU Water Block: EK-Supremacy Classic RGB — Nickel + Plexi (including thermal compound)
- — Heatsink: EK-CoolStream Classic PE 240 (Slim Dual)
- — Heatsink Size: 273 x 120 x 45mm (L x W x H)
- — Radiator fan: EK-Vardar F4-120ER RGB (500-2200 rpm) (2 pcs.
) - — Pump with reservoir: EK-XRES 140 SPC PWM Classic RGB — Plexi (incl. pump)
- — Tube: EK-DuraClear 9.5/12.7 mm (3/8» — 1/2») (2 meters)
- — Compression fittings: EK-STC Classic 10/13 (3/8» — 1/2») — G1/4 nickel (6 pcs)
- — Coolant concentrate: EK-CryoFuel Clear rev.2 (100 ml; per 1 liter of coolant)
- — EK-UNI pump bracket (120 mm fan)
- — Y-cable splitter: EK-Cable Y-Splitter (10 cm) dual fan
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Product specifications may differ from those indicated on the site, check the product specifications at the time of purchase and payment. All information on the site about the goods is for reference only and is not a public offer in accordance with paragraph 2 of Article 437 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation. We kindly ask you to check the availability of the desired functions and characteristics when purchasing.